View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
53a1 Member
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
|
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Dave,
I didn't have any trouble with mine so I'm thinking maybe you have the lever going under the lobe rather than riding on top? In that case I would make sure the lobe is pointed down before installing.
I don't know. _________________ '53 M38A1 X2 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:17 pm Post subject: Fuel Pump |
|
|
Dave,
I turned cam so the long part of the lobe is facing in towards the center of the engine and I am pretty sure that the arm was on top of the cam. I'll give it another shot as soon as I get the bolt out and order a new bolt. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:58 pm Post subject: Brake Lines |
|
|
I am running my brake lines. Any one have any pictures in their photo album that would be useful? Just wondering how the lines coming off the master cylinder are routed. It'll probably work itself out but some pictures would be nice.
Still trying to dig the busted off bolt out. It's mostly drilled out but having trouble picking the remnants out of the threads. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
53a1 Member
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
|
Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 11:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
This is all I have. I have an a1 but I think they are the same?
The line running from the back goes into the boxed part of the frame and out a hole.
_________________ '53 M38A1 X2 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:36 pm Post subject: Brake Lines |
|
|
Well, I got the fuel pump bolt out.
The brake lines are mostly run. And, If I had to do it all over again, I would install the brake system before installing the engine and steering box.
Thanks for the picture Dave. It looks like the front brake line is a bit different between M38 and M38A1. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16289 Location: Wisconsin
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 10:20 pm Post subject: Progress |
|
|
Thanks Wes. That helped. Brake lines are in and I am waiting for a replacement fuel pump bolt. My carb is off being rebuild. I will probably test run my engine using the Solex until my correct carb comes back. I couldn't find the correct hose size for the hose between the cross over tube and oil filler tube. I just used what I could find. It works OK but looks a bit stretched out.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
53a1 Member
Joined: Jun 25, 2008 Posts: 583 Location: Kern Co.
|
Posted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 10:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
Looks great Dave.
If you are using a new brake line kit, don't be surprised if you get a leak hear or there. I found that I had to tighten up the lines more than I thought. Must be the initial seating of the flare. After the initial seating they seam to seal without much effort.
Yes, much easier to run the lines with the engine out but could be worse. At lease you have your tub and fenders off. _________________ '53 M38A1 X2 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Fri Oct 01, 2010 5:17 pm Post subject: Fuel Pump |
|
|
I swear something is not right with my fuel pump or engine plate. The bottom bowl does not match up with the rectangular pocket in the front engine plate. Does anyone notice anything unusual in these pictures? t also looks like the top bowl is riding on the top of the engine plate.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
wesk Site Administrator
Joined: Apr 04, 2005 Posts: 16289 Location: Wisconsin
|
Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
Your pump looks correct. The spacer looks like it is about 1/2" so that only leaves the front mount plate as suspect. Since the civvy dual fuel/vac pump has a smaller diameter upper pump section and does not use the spacer I would assume that front plate is from a CJ3A or CJ3B. What model pump was installed on the engine originally?
I think you need to extend the lower pump bowl opening in the front plate aft and trim a little that contacts the top pump section or get a M38 front engine plate. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nepperjepper Member
Joined: Jun 24, 2009 Posts: 19 Location: Mooresville Indiana
|
Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 9:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yup same as mine, wrong mounting plate. Get the cut off wheel out..Jeff
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:41 pm Post subject: Engine Plate |
|
|
I'll Have to think about it for a while. I am guessing that I will get the correct engine plate. I'll post here and on G503 to see if anyone has one. Here is a picture of my engine before it was rebuilt. The previous owner told me that he removed it from a generator housing and the rest was scrapped. I purchased this front engine plate on Ebay for $20.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
nepperjepper Member
Joined: Jun 24, 2009 Posts: 19 Location: Mooresville Indiana
|
Posted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 10:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I thought about changing the plate also but I wasn’t up to taking the front of the newly rebuilt engine apart and trying to pull the gear off the camshaft can be a pain. Good luck with your project..Jeff |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2010 7:14 am Post subject: Front Engine Plate |
|
|
I am not looking forward to it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ocwd Member
Joined: May 14, 2007 Posts: 721 Location: Placentia, CA
|
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:37 am Post subject: Front Engine Plate |
|
|
Got back to work on my Jeep last week. I removed the timing gear cover and pulled the fiber timing gear. My engine was timed with the fiber gear and crank shaft gear marks lined up and the timing mark on the flywheel lined up also. Then, after I pulled the fiber gear, and like a big dummy, I turned my engine. It seams that it should be pretty easy to get everything lined up again.
I'll need to replace the timing cover and oil pan gaskets now. Anyone have an opinion on the oil pan gasket? I have one cork gasket and one paper gasket. I used a paper gasket and RTV last time and it looked like I had a pretty good seal. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|