Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:24 pm Post subject:
Cracks to look for are: distributor sleeve hole in block, entire distributor side of the block, water jacket holes between studs and valves, especially the # 2 & 3 cylinders. Have you found any re-bore size stamped on the pistons? Any bearing sizes? If it's standard and not cracked, you are a winner! John
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:18 pm Post subject:
Gently scrape the carbon off the piston tops and look for nothing, or .030 for example. Nothing usually means standard, and .030 is 30 over or it has been bored. The rods and mains have bearing shells or insert bearings that will have the markings on the outside towards the end. You have to take the rod and crank caps off to see. Treasure hunt time. John
My original suggestion was to unload that motor without investing a ton of your time, labor or money in it. You got it for nothing and you can sell it for $300 to 400 right now to a MB owner looking for that serial number. Or you can continue on this path and invest 25 to 40 hours into it then try to sell it for $500 without any warranty. There are MB owners who will risk $300 to 400 right now they way it sits.
You can run with $400 right now in your pocket and find a M38 engine in that range and be investing your time, energy and money in the correct engine for your project. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
That engine came with a T84 tranny and a very early 3/4" shaft D18. The T90 does not fit well in a MB because it is longer and taller the T84. You would be money ahead to sell the tranny/transfer separate or hold onto them until you have your M38 project running since they are essentially the same tranny and transfer the M38 uses. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:40 pm Post subject:
Okies. did some poking today.
Front main bearing has the number 2986 030 the middle has 2987 020 I did not remove the rear.
Connecting rod #1 piston bearing has clevite micro on one side and 3 24 010 / cb 236 m on the other
The pistons are all marked on the top starting from the front 030/ 0300/ 0300/ 0300
What does this tell you folks who know these things? _________________ Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
The crank was either ground .020 or .030 undersize on the mains or the builder simply used whichever undersize bearing fit best on the mains which may have been left unground but worn.
It could have been rebuilt several times. Military rebuilds generally have the depot overhaul facility's rebuild plate nailed to the block. I didn't see an rebuild plates on that block so you can assume that any rebuilding occurred after the military. The variations in main bearings leads me to believe that the last work was probably a civilian on a tight budget. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
you would have even seen them on the bolts holding the intake manifold down too.
anyways, I had a question for FRankencrank....
Quote:
filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life.
did you replace the stinky oil in the oilpan with the diesel and ATF and then run the drill to get the oil in the gallies? just curious because I am thinking about doing the same....I know the when my jeep ran last, we serviced the oil religiously. It has been 20 + years before it ran last. I will probably overhaul at some point. thanks.
Joined: Sep 18, 2012 Posts: 589 Location: South East Saskatchewan
Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 1:43 pm Post subject:
Well nobody has come for this yet and it got warm and I was bored.
the camshaft is totaly loose and can be spun fairly easily. the Pistons are very stuck, have had them soaking for a couple weeks too. The number three I can drive a bit but I need a better piece of wood. Anyways ther are some numbers on the side of the crank, I believe one is a date in which case this is from 48, possibly when it was rebuilt? couple other pics in my album. _________________ Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album210&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Joined: Nov 01, 2011 Posts: 201 Location: Escondido, CA
Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:48 pm Post subject:
frankthecrank58 wrote:
i can attest to the diesel soaking. just got a '67 Jeepster that was parked outside and not run for 18 years. locked up solid. drained the oil and such a foul stench of old gas and oil. filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life. a few more times with the fuel and it ran. quietly(for an odd-fire Dauntless) shot a mouse nest out the exhaust and scared the dog
Quote:
filled up the cylinders with a mix of diesel and auto tranny fluid and left it over night. next day got a pry bar and hung on the crank nut and it spun! pumped out the cylinders, cleaned the plugs, changed the oil and filter,spun the oil pump gear with a drill to get the oil through the galleys, threw some fuel in the carb, hot wired it........she sputtered to life.
did you replace the stinky oil in the oilpan with the diesel and ATF and then run the drill to get the oil in the gallies? just curious because I am thinking about doing the same....I know the when my jeep ran last, we serviced the oil religiously. It has been 20 + years before it ran last. I will probably overhaul at some point. thanks.
You can spin the oil pump in a GM with a drill but not in a Willys 134 4 banger. The oil pump shaft is geared direct to the cam. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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John
