Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2013 10:33 am Post subject: Internal coolant leaks
I was checking my L-Head, serial # RMC108340, casting # 804380w13-D-P5-CU-CR for internl coolant leaks with 10 psi air pressure through the drain port on the block. I have a leak in the distributor shaft area. It looks like there is some sort of seam there. Am I doomed or will this tighten up when the oil pump and distributor is installed?
The are around the distributor of the Willys block is the weakest point in the block's coolant system. The crack will need to be repaired. Stitching is the normal procedure used to repair those cracks. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Have you filled the block with coolant and used a coolant system pressure tester? If there's a leak there it will show the yellow/green coolant very quickly. If you confirm a leak there it will not tighten up with the installation of the distributor. The distributor is a slip fit and fastens from the top of the hole applying pressure down only. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
That particular repair addresses the smaller diameter bore further down from the top of the distributor mounting boss. Note that the member also had to turn that portion of his distributor shaft housing down to fit the smaller ID of the copper lined hole. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Feb 16, 2007 Posts: 206 Location: Gold Coast Australia
Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 2:31 pm Post subject:
I am trying to help someone with a difficult issue to solve it simply. Simply using a proven fix, if that will address what he states his issue to be. BTW this not an uncommon problem
Seabee wrote:
mine is actually down in the distributor shaft
Wes wrote:
Note that the member also had to turn that portion of his distributor shaft housing down to fit the smaller ID of the copper lined hole
Where do you see that? I certainly don't.
In the complete thread there are 4 folk who effected this repair without going anywhere near a machine shop.
Later in the 'thread'
Stephan wrote:
i was reading older posts where somebody was taking his engine to a machine shop to get the distributor channel spindeld and slaved for a lot of money
not that HE went to any machine shop.
Dennis wrote:
I used this repair myself 35 years ago on a Canadian contract MB [original engine] and it is still running just fine and has no water leaks or issues
Alasdair wrote:
30 years ago, I ran a 3/4" UNC (I think??) tap all the way down the hole (from distributor to oil pump) and threaded it. I then wound in a piece of threaded brass tubing with thread sealer applied. To the best of my knowledge, the engine is still going fine and has never leaked water to the oil. I believe this is a better way than a copper tube as it ties it all together.
Stephan is supported
Marty elaborated & wrote:
I used the epoxy/copper tube method on the engine I recently overhauled for my buddy. I wasn't sure if it was cracked or not but I didn't want to take a chance, since I had found water in the oil when I disassembled it. It was very easy, and it could be done with the engine in the vehicle.
You should be able to see if the distributor bore is leaking by pulling the valve cover, pressure testing the cooling system and observing the lower end of the distributor hole for water leakage.
The US size of the copper tube is regular 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD copper water pipe. 5-1/4" long worked out perfect for this particular block. I used JB Weld 24 hour epoxy for the glue. Stephan, thanks for the great tip!
_________________ John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
John,
I pointed out what is printed in the King's English in the last post of the link you provided. I am not getting into one of your arguments. I did not disagree with the suggested fix. I simply read the article completely through and posted my note on what is very easy to read for your self below. This web site is about sharing all available data with no regard to any one-up-man-ship.
Quote:
Re: Easy repair cracked distributor channel
by wolfheze » Sat May 01, 2010 1:43 pm
my reconditiond engine had been repaired using the copper tube method, only realised when i came to fit the distributor and couldnt get the end of the shaft to locate in its slot, think it was running slightly out of true so ended up having to have a millimetre turned off the distrbutor shaft to clear the copper tube Was mildly pissed off at the time but have found it to be a highly effective repair and has caused no problems in 5 years use.
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