M38 Rear Hubs not coming off!

Tembek · Member Joined: Oct 20, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Houston

Have a heavy duty hub puller from Kaiser and so far I've only managed to bend the hub and the puller. Anyone have any ideas? The axle nuts came off ok, and things don't really look that corroded.

Jim

aforests · Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 8:17 pm Post subject:

Post some pictures of your hub puller setup.

Could try heating it up once you have some tension on the puller then give it a wack with a heavy hammer.

Also, make sure you have retracted the brake shoes so the drum isn't hanging up on them.
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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Tembek · Member Joined: Oct 20, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Houston

Tried heat, also hammering. Had already removed the drum. This thing almost seems welded on.

wesk · Posted: Wed Apr 29, 2015 10:28 pm Post subject:

This is the way to get the hub off:

Here's a good video:
http://www.4wdmechanix.com/HD-Video-Tool-How-to-Using-the-OTC-7394-Hub-Puller.html

If she still is stubborn I get her under a lot of tension and spray the end of the axle/keyway with penetrant and let her sit a day then I come back and whack the tip of the screw shaft with the hammer arm still attached.

By the way do not take the axle nut all the way off. Just back it away from the hib about 4 threads. Otherwise when it launches across the room it hits you in the shin first then slams into the door on your new car! Wink

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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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oilleaker1 · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 4:38 am Post subject:

It's the heavy whack on the end that removes mine. It did indeed fly a ways too! John

Tembek · Member Joined: Oct 20, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Houston

Thanks. I don't have that model but the one I have is strong enough to bend the hub. I've tried heat, penetrating oil, and letting it sit overnight. And of course the whack on the end. Both my rear hubs haven't shifted. I do have the axle nut partly on - a very good idea.

I wonder if I can pull the whole assembly with the axle and then have it pressed out?

Jim

Xamon · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 7:29 am Post subject:

I really really strongly suggest getting that puller, I had a different one to start and it was drilling a hole in the axle without moving the hub, I got one of these pullers put it on hand tight, 3 hits with the mallet to tighten it and the hub just popped right off.
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RICKG · Member Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1744 Location: SO IDAHO

Tembek · Member Joined: Oct 20, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Houston

Just ordered the OTC puller. And I sure feel for whoever launches a popped drum into their wife's car. My wife drives an old jag. Aluminum body. Fixing that would pretty much wipe out my jeep budget!

Jim

wesk · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:18 am Post subject:

If your current puller is a jaw type puller then that is the cause of the bending. These hubs were designed to only be pulled from the lug studs. Bent hubs are generally junk. Using them after trying to straighten them by eyeball doesn't usually end up well.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Tembek · Member Joined: Oct 20, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Houston

Thanks Wes. No it's a lug puller. I'm resigned to looking for new hubs. Is it correct I can pull the axles with the hub still in place? I may end up trying to cut them (hubs) off with an angle grinder.

Jim[/img]

wesk · Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2015 10:08 am Post subject:

No it is not true. With the drums off you can pull the bolts out of the axle bearing retainer cover and pull the whole mess, hub, back plate, bearing retainer and axle out and take that axle/hub assembly to the maching shop to press the axle out of the hub and the bearing off the axle as well. Try to keep track of your bearing shims.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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jimm · Posted: Sat May 02, 2015 8:42 pm Post subject:

Tembek · Member Joined: Oct 20, 2014 Posts: 48 Location: Houston

Ok, finally got the hubs off. Bought the OTC puller. It's very high quality. But in the end I had to cut the hubs off with an angle grinder. Surprisingly there was no rust on the tapered joint and even some lube remaining. However there was also some kind of hard deposit, like a resin or something. We had tried heat, icing the shaft, penetrating oil. leaving the puller tension on for days, hammering, and using the puller until the flange of the hubs started to yield. The axles look great and are straight.

I am still in awe of how much force the tapered joints resisted.

I like the idea about loosening the axle nuts and driving around for while first to try to break the joint free. Will try that next time.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Jim


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