The head gasket saga continues.....

[cabinfever]

Friday, I placed my cylinder head on a new copper gasket. Everything went good. I tightened the 15 head bolts in the proper sequence in three rounds (35 - 50 - 65 psi.) Then, I adjusted the valve lash.

Today, I put everything back. Added oil and coolant. And. started the engine. It ran real well. I brought her up to running temp (~160 degrees). I made sure the coolant was flowing and then shut her down.

Next, I removed the intake valve cover and the carb. I re-torqued all 15 bolts to 65 psi. I was surprised that each bolt turned about 1/2 revolution. I readjusted the intake valve lash again. And then, put everything back in place.

I jumped in and pushed the starter. The starter turned the engine over, put the engine wouldn't fire. (yes, the electric switch was turned to ON) I got out and primed the fuel pump lever. Still not firing...well, maybe a little half-hearted firing that was very infrequent.

Hummmm? I thought maybe the cables were routed incorrectly. I ran inside and got a copy of Wes' revised cable routing diagram. Cable routing was AOK.

I looked at the spark plugs. A couple were wet, a couple were dry.

Here's my question. Is it possible that if I incorrectly adjusted the valve lash after re-torqueing, would it cause the jeep not to start? I can't believe I did it incorrectly. Only slight adjustments were necessary.

At any rate, unless someone has any ideas, it looks like tomorrow I will be following the step-by-step troubleshooting guide in the TM. This kinda reminds me of finding a bad condenser a couple years ago. Can't believe a 2 year old condenser would go bad so soon with only 100 miles on it.

Thanks for listening.
_________________
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association

[cabinfever]

I think I may have answered my own question.

After consulting with TM9-8014, Paragraph 81, b(8) on page 80, an incorrect valve clearance may be the cause for an engine not starting.

So, tomorrow I'll make sure that I start with Cylinder #1 at TDC and readjust the valve clearance. I'll remove the distributor cap to insure that #1 is at TDC.
_________________
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association

[4x4M38]

Man,
Just no peace at all with this deal.
_________________
Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album372&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[skyjeep50]

You said a couple of your plugs were "wet" - with what? Oil, gas, coolant? May not have anything to do with the failure to start but it might indicate where to start looking for the basic problem.
_________________
1951 M38

[cabinfever]

skyjeep, the plugs were wet with gasoline.

So, today I re-checked the intake valve lash. All was good and didn't have to do any adjustments.

With the help of my wife, we tested all four plugs. Had spark at each one. (what a gal considering it was Mother's Day)

I removed the fuel line, and fuel was being pumped to the carb.

Checked the screen in the carb and it was clean.

I guess the next step is to test compression.

What I don't get is that the jeep started and ran just fine after I installed the head gasket and adjusted the valve lash.

Now, after re-torqueing and readjusting the valve lash, it won't start.
_________________
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association

[G740]

There are two photos of the plug wire locations. One is wrong and one is right. You might check it again.
John

[wesk]

Good point John. The figure he is referring to is 79 in TM 9-8014 on Page 173.


_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php