Valve Removal

Derstrom · Member Joined: May 23, 2016 Posts: 37

I'm overhauling a F134. The heads removed and the valve springs are removed. The valves are stuck in the guides. Any suggestions? Anyone dealt with this before? I tried searching this but no luck.

wesk · Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 8:28 am Post subject:

Penetrant and large BRASS hammer and drift. Heat doesn't help much.

If you have already made the mistake and hammering against the valve stem with steel hammer and drift then before it starts moving lower grind off the mushroom head you created before trying to drive the end of the stem thru the guide.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Derstrom · Member Joined: May 23, 2016 Posts: 37

I was on the right track then. I have hit the valve stems with a rubber shot hammer, and tapped with a little ball peen but the valves aren't deformed in any way. I was thinking about heat, but I'll go fetch a brass hammer and get to work. Thanks Wes, your help is much appreciated!

wesk · Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:45 am Post subject:

Due to the tight fit only top shelf penetrants will work. I prefer Mousemilk for the tough jobs. PB Blaster is my second choice.

Heat the area around the valve guide a wee bit with a propane torch then apply the penetrant and continue to apply until it stops boiling. Let her set a day or two.

http://www.skygeek.com/mouse-milk.html?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_content=mouse-milk&utm_campaign=froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkZfLBRCzARIsAH3wMKoszDI6HDWY-OPmWzSCdC6m4Ui-ZyY2kjLRXWsFJuqeB-m1t_HdTM0aAuHbEALw_wcB

http://www.mousemilk.com/

_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

RonD2 · Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:24 pm Post subject:

Hi Wes. No intent to hijack the post, but I've seen your other posts about Mouse Milk and have been curious because I never heard of it before here. I maybe interested to order 8 ounces for $21 delivered (steep compared to PB Blaster) just to make the difference between success and failure when I need it most, but have a question: the link says:

"Opened Container: Product will develop light brown tint within 30 days. Airborne particles will contaminate the product and the volatile ingredients will dissipate rapidly. Product will become ineffective as penetrating oil after 30 days."

Have you experienced this? Does it really become useless a month after opening, even closing the container right away? What kind of evaporation or chemical reaction does that? Eight ounces seems like a lot for any job I can think of (save them all up for a month at a time?), but I'm a rookie and appreciate the advice.
_________________
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

wesk · Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:20 pm Post subject:

Hello Ron,

Just about all the penetrants are volatile aromatic mixes. Exposure to the atmosphere will dissipate any of their aromatics in short order.

I can't say for sure how close the 30 day notice is to my experience with using it but I am guessing I seldom make it to the 30th day before my bottle is empty.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Derstrom · Member Joined: May 23, 2016 Posts: 37

Seems we can't get mouse milk up here in Canada. I've been using Kroil. Still not moving. Heat.... squirt... hit. Repeat.

wesk · Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 8:50 am Post subject:

Sometimes the best way to instruct on a procedure is by demonstration. I would suggest lacking success at this procedure you take your head to an automotive machinist and have him demonstrate the proper execution of the procedure.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Derstrom · Member Joined: May 23, 2016 Posts: 37

Oh, I ain't done with that miserable lump of metal yet, Wes. I'm a very stubborn old man.

wesk · Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 9:49 am Post subject:

Have you tried flooding the intake port with the head inverted and let it soak bottom up?
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Derstrom · Member Joined: May 23, 2016 Posts: 37

I got it. Heat cycled #4 and #3 about 20x with a penetrating oil cool down. Got em both out. Bad news is the head is corroded so bad inside it's not reparable. But thanks again Wes. Having you and the site as backup is a godsend sometimes, thanks for doing what you do.

RonD2 · Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 12:49 pm Post subject:

Amen to that!
_________________
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari


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