Create an account Home  ·  ·  Forums  ·  ·  Articles  ·  ·  Downloads  ·  ·  Photo Gallery  
Login
Nickname

Password

Don't have an account yet? You can create one here.

Navigation
· Home
· Article Archive
· Article Submit
· Downloads
· FAQ
· Forums
· Members List
· Photo Gallery
· Private Messages
· Web Links
· Your Account

Search Articles



Forums

M38 no start condition
Wanted: L-134 crankshaft
Looking for M38 seat cover pattern
Wanted: Browning M2 MK-23 Mount
Adjusting Tappits
Compression testing results.
Rear brake cyclinder compatability
T90 inspection before action?
M38 Radio Power Cable/Connector
Wanted to buy - C-375/VRC

Willys M Jeeps Forums


willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Front axel hubs
 Forum FAQForum FAQ   SearchSearch   UsergroupsUsergroups   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Front axel hubs

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    willysmjeeps.com Forum Index -> Technical Knowledge Base
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
swat
Member


Joined: Jan 27, 2010
Posts: 98
Location: Warner Robins, Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 1:21 pm    Post subject: Front axel hubs Reply with quote

I have seen quite a few posts about what a pain in the afterburner it is to pull rear hubs on an Dana 44 axel. I will soon be doing brakes and inspecting wheel bearings on the front Dana 25 axel on my M38. Is this the same ordeal for getting the hubs off? Am I facing a rite of passage?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator


Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16271
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hub removal tasks has received a lot of undue bad publicity. I have been pulling these type hubs for 50 years and they are a simple job. The key is to use the right tool for the job. In virtually every single whiner case the whiner started with the wrong tool. If you don't have an air compressor, a 1/2" drive impact gun and a proper striker type hub puller then you shouldn't be fooling with the rear hubs on either your Dana/Spicer 41 or 44.
I mention the air compressor and the impact gun for the purpose of loosening the axle shaft nuts and the pinion shaft nuts.



This is the right tool. Snug her up by hand. Using an 8 oz ballpean hammer strike the striker a few times until it seems not to want to go any tighter. Then with a good healthy swing rap the tip of the puller shaft with the same hammer and you'll hear a loud crack and the hub and drum assy will pop loose against the axle nut that was only loosened and not completely removed so you wouldn't have to chase all the parts and tools across the shop. It's that simple.

But the small minded folks that figure they don't have to follow the rules of physics start by hammering the $&% out of the drum, then using a huge claw type puller they manage to permanently change the shape of the brake drum. Then they go wild with the torch and melt all the seals. Then they come to a web site and ask why the hub is so hard to remove. Most of us don't have the heart to show them how dumb they were. And it's a total waste of time to ask if they have the manual in front of them!

Now back to your question. The front model 25 hubs are retained by a locknut, special washer and plain nut. No puller is needed. You unscrew it all. It is all layed out in the manual. TM 9-8012 Fig 99 on page 255 shows the parts. You remove the little hub cap. Unbolt and remove the drive flange. Using the SPECIAL large socket type hub nut wrench unscrew the outer nut. Then with a bent pick and magnet pull out the washer with a tip bent over. Then with the special socket type wrench unscrew the inner nut. The with a pick and magnut remove the tabbed washer. The if necessary loosen the brake shoe adjustment and grasp the hub/drum with two hands and wiggle it off.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
swat
Member


Joined: Jan 27, 2010
Posts: 98
Location: Warner Robins, Georgia

PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2010 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks WES. Your depth of knowledge and experience is priceless. I will shop the internet for the Hub socket. No immediate plans to do the back axle, but when I get ready, where is a good place to purchase a hub puller like the one in your response photo?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator


Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16271
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You'll find them GI surplus occasionally. Proto and OTC both make good ones. Figure anywhere from $75 to $250.

You can buy the front hub nut socket at Napa or your local auto parts store.

Just print these photos and take them to your ayto store.






_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    willysmjeeps.com Forum Index -> Technical Knowledge Base All times are GMT - 6 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Powered by phpBB © 2001 phpBB Group
Forums ©

 



PHP-Nuke Copyright © 2005 by Francisco Burzi. This is free software, and you may redistribute it under the GPL. PHP-Nuke comes with absolutely no warranty, for details, see the license.