Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 12:36 pm Post subject: frozen distributor - any ideas!
I found most of my running problem is that I can't set the distributor - it is frozen to the block. I suspect the centrifugal advance is rusted and not working. What I have is an Auto-Lite IAD 4008 8 D - a dust proof model. taking the cap and rotor off I found a rusted dust cap that I got off ok. I then removed the hold down bolt the loosened to clamp underneath so as to turn, but I can't turn it nor can I remove the whole assembly. I have tried regular penetrating oil and a new CRC oil called Freeze-Off, I have used a floor bar on the top, with a lot of pressure and tapped pretty hard from the underside. I took and right fender and right wheel off so I have a pretty clear shot. I have been soaking it for over a week. My next thought is to use a 6' digging bar standing on to top of the engine. I read somewhere that someone said they soaked for a year before theirs broke loose. Any ideas?
Wes - I will get those engine numbers now I can see them. _________________ 1952 M38
There are two bolts under the distributor. A pinch or friction bolt for swinging the distributor and an attachment bolt that secures the swing plate to the bottom of the distributor. Take both bolts all the way out. Tap a bit on that swing plate and get it loose enough to swing back and forth. Use some compressed air to blow the dirt and crud out from between the swing plate, distributor and block. A paint brush and some brake cleaner will speed up the cleanup followup with blast of compressed air. Soak it with PB blaster for a day or two. Using a pipe wrench try to break it loose by twisting the distributor housing back and forth a little. You should notice a bit of movement in a day then try for a little more. As a last resort heat the area of the block which is holding the distributor with a torch. A real torch not a propane torch. Either Mapp Gas torch or acetylene. Quickly douse the distributor with a can of water. It will shrink faster then the cast iron and tap a bit. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 6:29 pm Post subject: I was kidding about the digging bar
I do have 2 bolts out - the mounting bolt that bolts to the block cast and the rotation locking pinch clamp - actually I have the nut off the pinch clamp - the bolt head is against the block, but as I see it, the pinch clamp plate is part of the distributor and should come off with it. I was thinking about forcing a chisel between the pinch clamp plate and the block casting but that would likely damage the cast. I did have a vise-grip chain wrench on it - no movement. It is pretty clean under there after all the penetrating oil. I think the next step will be the torch. Since I am by myself I though I'd run a cable to a pulley at the angle of the distributor mount to a beam, attach a couple hundred pounds, so it will drop a few inches. heat the block casting at the bottom of the protrusion for the distributor. The idea of water on the hot distributor is good - I'll use a can of ice water in one hand and tap with the other hand and hope it pops out - thing is, I don't want any water hitting were I heated the block. I wonder if the tube and shaft are sealed or will water poured on go through, down the shaft and into the crankcase - oh well - the worst will be I'd have to change the oil. I suspect when I get it off it will be toast, not even good as a core. All this will wait until we get a cooler day. _________________ 1952 M38
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 972 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:57 am Post subject:
I'd step back and quit with the large force to that cast body. You'll most likely break it off and leave the stub of it in the block. When they are stuck that bad, the only way I've got them out intact is to drive two thin wedges in between the block and the distibutor base. It didn't hurt my block, but you need to start thin and work up to wider wedges. Lots of penetrant while you work it. Heat may or may not help. The stub goes down into the solid block hole about 1 1/2 inches so heat really doesn't get down. I pulled my oil pump and tapped up on the drive end and then sheared the roll pin, but it moved just enough to get the wedges in. Not fun. Hope you win., John
Heat works. That's personal testimony. The soft metal housing when rapidly cooled will shrink much faster than the cast iron. Heavy hammering is the last resort. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
One of these days I will. The last time I was out was to pick up an M38 tub in Denver and stopped to visit the nephew at Ellsworth. S I guess I need to find something I need to pick up out west again. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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