Joined: Oct 06, 2014 Posts: 252 Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen
Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 9:30 pm Post subject: Restoring Fuel Tank
I bought this tank last year for $100. He said there were some rust holes in the bottom, I thought, no big deal I'll get that fixed...
I cleaned up the outside and started wire wheeling the bottom to find out that not only are there holes, the whole #@$%@ bottom is rotten. To make a long story short, I took the tank to numerous guys in town, and they all looked at it and said they wouldn't touch it, but they would build me a new tank. I finally just took it home and cut the bottom out. I took it to another welding/fab place and they said they could put a bottom back on.
I then took it over to a radiator shop and had them dunk it and clean for $50. It was not worth $50 as there is still a fair amount of rust and corrosion. So I just got done trying to do it by hand.
I need advice on whether the inside is too far gone to invest any more money into this tank. fire away...
I'll never recommend a tank sealer but you need to glass bead blast the inside skin first. Then repair any pin holes or any pits that are more than halfway through the steel. Then weld a new bottom skin on and run it. Keep the tank at 3/4 full and you won't have any serious rust issue in your lifetime with the jeep. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
First let me say this: I have been wrenching on cars, trucks, ATV's/cycles and airplanes for 55 years. I have seen just how well all the sealers hold up to time.
Unless the sealer is professionally applied to a properly prepared tank it will not last. The grief it causes when it peels and plugs up various points in your fuel system is not worth the price of repairing the tank correctly.
I use several methods.
Light corrosion I will hot tank the tank and flush it thoroughly and place it back in service.
Heavier corrosion I will cut the worse skin off and bead blast the tank innards clean and weld in a new skin. Sometimes if all skins are heavily corroded/pitted but the end caps and bulkheads are good I will replace all the skin.
On some smaller tanks, like motor cycles I will fill them 1/4th to 1/3rd up with smooth river stone and shake them for a day or two.
Once the metal is clean the best method to keep rust away is to keep the tank filled. A moisture drain in the lowest part of the tank is also a good idea. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 14, 2009 Posts: 971 Location: South Dakota
Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:17 am Post subject:
The repro tanks are too tall. Fix yours as suggested and don't use sealer. Any leaks on the welds can be soldered and checked with 2 # of air pressure and soapy water. The only time I use tank sealer is in fiberglass motorcycle gas tanks. John
Joined: Oct 06, 2014 Posts: 252 Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen
Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 8:51 am Post subject:
Thanks for the reply's!
I will look for someone to bead blast the inside of the tank for me and go from there. _________________ Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Forum FAQ
Search
Usergroups
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
