Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 1:02 pm Post subject: Carb problem?
I got a new carb from MWM, ran like it never has before. Took it out and drove it around up and down hills. Loved it! Get home and put a new starter switch in it, cause the other was old and at times would not make the connection. Now it hardly runs. Changed out the fuel filter, rust crap came out so I thought that was the problem. Put in the clear plastic filter before the fuel pump. Put a mason jar after the fuel pump and started the jeep. I thought I would run the gas out of bowl while filling the jar, I had to shut it off cause the jar was almost full , about 15 to 20 seconds. The fuel pump works fine, the gas was clean, the fuel filter is half full with no air bubbles and clear. Still ran bad like it's starving for fuel. Took the carb completely apart and blew out with carb cleaner, did find a small piece of rust. Put it back together and it ran perfect revved it up and sounded great. Then about 20 seconds later, it's back to the same sputtering and starved for fuel. Took apart a second time found nothing. Started up well then the same story after about 20 seconds of running well, it goes back to sputtering. Any thoughts? _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 1:47 pm Post subject:
Fuel lines were new, tank was flushed, but some fines did come out and were found in the fuel filter. _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:39 pm Post subject:
Pull the fuel cap off and see if it runs, could be the vent to the fuel tank is clogged causing vapor lock... especially if you have rust and junk in the tank... Not saying that is the problem,, but one of the things to try... _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:57 pm Post subject:
Thanks, I've taken apart and consulted the downloads on carbs. starts and idles great, just no acceleration allowed. doesn't get fuel. I think it has to be a plug the way it was good yesterday and bad today. Thanks I'll try it. _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 5:22 pm Post subject:
When I flushed the tank I removed the tank element(filter) and ran a filter before the fuel pump. I put new fuel lines when I flushed out the tank. I put a new dual fuel pump in. I had a YS carb, just I couldn't get the carb to perform so I sent it in and got a rebuilt one from MWM. Very nice carb, no adjustment, plug and play. I also had the Distributor rebuilt by MWM just before I replaced the carb. So now I have a new carb, fuel pump and new distributor. So I take it out and have a good time. The next day it won't run well. Then I do everything like check fuel filter and carb etc. Today I consulted some gentlemen I know run M series vehicles and they were kind enough to come over and see and hear what I'm doing. He immediately tells me it's timing. We pull off the dist cover and reset the points. I had checked the points when I put it all to gather initially, but he tells me they wear in and you have to recheck them. Too much gap, I didn't know that. When I had my 64 chev, I had points and didn't remember doing this. Anyways that was all that was wrong with it. I did need the fuel filter replaced and I'll keep my eye on the rust situation. I just would've never thought to look at the points, them being new, I was planning to go back and look at the dist. but I thought I should have another set of eyes with me. Thanks for all of your input. Couldn't do squat with out these these forums. _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Most distributor points when new will have a wee bit of accelerated wear on the tip of the rubbing block. This results in the point gap BECOMING SMALLER requiring an early re-adjustment of point gap. Perhaps you misunderstood your advisor's ??Too much gap?? comment. It would have been reduced gap due to initial wear or run-in of the distributor. This changes both dwell and timing very slightly. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 2:14 am Post subject:
Yes, I may have. I didn't get in there and see what exactly he was looking at. I just remember his comment, then resetting the points. _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Tue Mar 15, 2016 6:17 pm Post subject:
OK, an explanation why the gap was greater. I drove the jeep around the block and it started missing, so I took the dist. cap off and reset the points. Drove it again and it started to miss. I popped the cap off again then notice the base plate was loose. That would explain my issue. Reset the points again then it was fine, no miss, no problems. Maybe a trained eye would've seen or checked this. I didn't . But at least I did find it. I just assumed that it came back from a good shop it would perfect. We all make mistakes. Hope this helps somebody.
Thanks _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
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