Distributor Removal

southpw · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 5:48 am Post subject: Distributor Removal

In preparation for painting the engine i have been stripping components slowly to be cations of not disturbing the timing as this engine was running when pulled. Can the distributor be pulled and put back in without disturbing timing if I keep the clamp tight but remove the bolt holding the plate against the block? If so, will the distributor just pull out after removal bolt highlighted in red?

_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

charlesfitton · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:34 am Post subject:

Yep - you got it in one.

Unless the red bolt is in a slot too - then you'll have to remember exactly where it was when you took it out. Take a photo. Or two. Or three.

southpw · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:48 am Post subject:

Thanks Charles.
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

charlesfitton · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:54 am Post subject:

No prob..what part of the world are you in..?
_________________
M38 CDN 52-30105
M38 CDN 52-30883

and other green crap...

southpw · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:57 am Post subject:

Cambridge Ontario
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

southpw · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:59 am Post subject:

Just saw that you are 30 min north of me in Maryhill. That's awesome
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

wesk · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 10:18 am Post subject:

The red bolt only retains the distributor downward. The pinch bolt is loosed when you wish to adjust timing within the limited range available.

To remove the distributor while limiting the impact of the disturbment just remove the red bolt and lift the distributor out of the hole. This sounds easy but over the years the folks that don't know what they are doing have often preceded you and managed to install the distributor housing without a coating of anti-seize. This results in the distributor's aluminum body seizing to the cast iron block. In this case it often ends in the destruction of the distributor to remove it. Especially if one lacks patience.

If your distributor appears to be stuck then be patient. Soak it daily with a strong penetrant. Each day try rotating the distributor housing left and right . They will usually finally break loose. If it remains stubborn then heating the cast iron with a torch and then suddenly cooling the distributor housing only with a blast of something cold IE CO2 while prying it upwards will free it.

The distributor shaft has an anti-rattle spring at the bottom end. make sure it came out with the distributor.

This is the military distributor. Your distributor has the pinch bolt instead of the bolt going up through the plate into the bottom side of the distributor.

If you do not disturb the crank & cam positions you can reinstall the distributor (which only will go completely in in one position) without upsetting the timing setting. The tang at the bottom of the distributor shaft is slightly offset.

Again this is the military distributor so the bolt in the slot is the pinch bolt on yours.

Here you can see the same offset to the female slot in the oil pump that the distributor must slip into.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

southpw · Posted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:20 pm Post subject:

Thanks Wes. After trying to remove and finding it quite tight I hit it with penetrating oil and left it for the day. I will work it out slowly through the week. I suspected the distributor was stuck in the hole and I should not be over anxious to get it out.
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

oilleaker1 · Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 7:04 am Post subject:

I've had all of the above. One was rusted absolutley solid. The block was leaking directly over it for many years. That one I drilled out. A bad experience. After soaking it etc., be careful because the distributor body is also cast. It will break off where it meets the stub going into the block. Wedging screwdrivers together etc. at the plate will help pry it up . Some guys put a ring gear hose clamp on the body and tap on the clamp to jar it loose. If you can get it to move, you have won. Then soak the crap out of it and gently work it back and forth and up. Good luck, best wishes. John

southpw · Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 7:22 am Post subject:

Thanks John. Appreciate the advise
_________________
1952 M38 project
Brad

charlesfitton · Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:11 pm Post subject:

Brad -Did you get my private message?
_________________
M38 CDN 52-30105
M38 CDN 52-30883

and other green crap...

southpw · Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:24 pm Post subject:

charlesfitton · Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 4:19 pm Post subject:

It should not matter which position the dist is in...probably just gunked up...patience is the key.

Soak and wiggle

f
_________________
M38 CDN 52-30105
M38 CDN 52-30883

and other green crap...

oilleaker1 · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:38 am Post subject:

T 40 ?????? What kind is this? I've used Kroil, PB Blaster, Freez off, Diesel Fuel, but never heard of T 40. John

southpw · Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2016 7:37 am Post subject:


Create an account	Home · · Forums · · Articles · · Downloads · · Photo Gallery


PHP-Nuke Copyright © 2005 by Francisco Burzi. This is free software, and you may redistribute it under the GPL. PHP-Nuke comes with absolutely no warranty, for details, see the license.