Create an account Home  ·  ·  Forums  ·  ·  Articles  ·  ·  Downloads  ·  ·  Photo Gallery  
Login
Nickname

Password

Don't have an account yet? You can create one here.

Navigation
· Home
· Article Archive
· Article Submit
· Downloads
· FAQ
· Forums
· Members List
· Photo Gallery
· Private Messages
· Web Links
· Your Account

Search Articles



Forums

Compression testing results.
Rear brake cyclinder compatability
T90 inspection before action?
M38 Radio Power Cable/Connector
Wanted to buy - C-375/VRC
Battery cut off in motor compartment?
Cross Member Radiator Tabs
WTB M38 distributor breaker plate tabs
Hodakaguy M38 Misc Thread
1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter

Willys M Jeeps Forums


willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - T 90 Synchroniser Question
 Forum FAQForum FAQ   SearchSearch   UsergroupsUsergroups   ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

T 90 Synchroniser Question

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    willysmjeeps.com Forum Index -> Technical Knowledge Base
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
oilleaker1
Member


Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota

PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 5:40 pm    Post subject: T 90 Synchroniser Question Reply with quote

I have a NOS synchroniser coming. What I want to know is how the internal synchroniser plates and springs are correctly installed. It is said the NOS springs are square and have a smaller angled end. The aftermarket ones are round and have a longer end to them. I believe that one end of the spring is to go into one of the 3 plates , and the opposite side goes into the same plate. Wolfman over on the 503 says he has found this to be a problem. He says one end of the spring should be cut off in order for it to provide more spring pressure on the 3 plates. I'm at a total loss right now. Anyone have a opinion on this? Before Wes kills me, I did do a search in downloads, technical section and general search typing in Synchroniser assembly . Nothing pops up. I'm ready to learn------- Cool John
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Bretto
Member


Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT

PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One end of the spring will fit into the pawl recess but won't make it all the way around so it's other end will fit in. That other end will rest inside against the synchro hub's wall. Then on the other side (hub flipped over) lay it in the same exact way, and into the same pawl.
I never cut mine and the ones I took out weren't cut.
Brett

_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Bobber
Member


Joined: Feb 09, 2014
Posts: 178
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went to YouTube and typed in t90 rebuild. I rebuilt my t90A and my Spicer 18 T-case. There you may find what you're looking for. I also bought my parts from Novak conversions, they are also informative on technical issues.
Good luck.
_________________
Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator


Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16265
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2016 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't overlook the Willys Tech rebuild guides:

http://www.willystech.com/wt/Model18TCase/Model18TransferCase.html

http://www.willystech.com/wt/T90RebuildGuide/T90rebuild.htm


The spring ring is shown this way in Rick Stiver's rebuild guide.

Novak has packaged their guide as a PDF doc.: https://www.novak-adapt.com/files/5014/6662/8399/T90_Rebuild.pdf

Here's another rebuild guide: http://www.cgoodwin.com/Old-Site/Willys/T90-D18-rebuild.htm
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
oilleaker1
Member


Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota

PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gentlemen, thank you for the info. and guides. They say for the round springs, one end goes in the pawl on each side of the same pawl. For the square ones, simply insert it in the recess. The square ones have a small tail on them and this makes more sense. I've also learned from Five T-90's and two T84's that end float and 2nd gear bushing wear are paramount in getting it to stay in gear. The transmission I'm currently working on was built by a automatic transmission shop that helped me with it, but admitted they really didn't have "Willys" experience. He made a homemade mainshaft spacer that gave it endfloat. So much, that the rear gear on the mainshaft inside the transfercase had float with the hardened washer and retaining nut pulled up tight. I had unusual noise and 2nd gear popping out, no wonder. They were worried it would heat up and be too tight and burn things up. I didn't have any damage on the parts, but the synchroniser was assembled with some new, some old parts. It's too much work to not replace it this time. Onward and upward! John
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    willysmjeeps.com Forum Index -> Technical Knowledge Base All times are GMT - 6 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Powered by phpBB © 2001 phpBB Group
Forums ©

 



PHP-Nuke Copyright © 2005 by Francisco Burzi. This is free software, and you may redistribute it under the GPL. PHP-Nuke comes with absolutely no warranty, for details, see the license.