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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Need help/advice with Steering box rebuild
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Need help/advice with Steering box rebuild

 
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32sbct
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Joined: May 09, 2011
Posts: 166

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Need help/advice with Steering box rebuild Reply with quote

I am in the process of rebuilding my steering box. I have a couple questions I can't find an answer for. First, I can't figure out how to remove the tube for the horn. There is an adapter the M38 has to screw in the horn switch. It does not seem that there is a way to remove the tube without removing the adapter but it seems to be pressed on??? See the pic below. This jeep came with no electrical system so I will basically be going with a 12 volt system for a CJ3A so I don't think I will need that adapter. Any ideas on how to remove it?



Maybe a better question is, do I need to remove the tube to complete the rebuild? My concern is being able to get the worm gear, cup, and balls back into the box with this tube in the way.

My other area of concern is the oil seal. The two sector shaft bushings look good and there was no play with the shaft. The oil shaft seal actually looks pretty good and there are no tears or cracks in the rubber. Am I correct in that the seal can't be removed/replaced without removing the bushing first? Here is a pic.



Thanks for any suggestions or advice.
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tube and that adapter seal off the bottom of that box together with the switch.

If you have ever undertaken a steering gearbox removal and repair with the vehicle assembled you will be wise to return the box you have to the best possible operating condition. The kit with the gaskets and the seal and the bushings are very cheap insurance. The M38 horn switch will work just fine with a 12 volt CJ3A type horn and wiring. By retaining the military switch, adapter and tube the ability to convert the jeep back to military 24 volt becomes a lot easier.

I have some photos I'll locate and post of the adapter and tube removed.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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artificer
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Joined: Feb 16, 2007
Posts: 206
Location: Gold Coast Australia

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a few things....from your pics that oil seal appears to be in back to front....the lip needs to go toward the fluid,not away.

Also clean up all those visible burrs as they will ruin & cause a newly fitted seal to leak.

New bushes should have groves across the face....the one that is grooved where the groove doesn't go right across goes to the outside of the box with the non groved portion closest to the seal.
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John GIBBINS
ASE Master Medium/Heavy Truck & Auto Technician 2002 USA
Licensed Motor Mechanic NSW # MVIC 49593 Current
YOU CAN'T TROUBLESHOOT WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND
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wesk
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seem to recall that seal was dual lipped. One inside to hold the oil and one outside to keep the dirt out.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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32sbct
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Joined: May 09, 2011
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. I have ordered the rebuild kit with the bushings and seal. I'm still not sure how to remove the adapter and tube, any thoughts on that? Thanks
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wesk
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you do not need to remove them then avoid damaging them by leaving them in place. They are pressed in and out. Your 12 volt system and horn will work just fine with them left alone.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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32sbct
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Joined: May 09, 2011
Posts: 166

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Artificer and Wes for the replies. Wes, I will take your advice and leave them in place. I will also be replacing the bushings, sector shaft, pitman arm, and the little ball bearings. I also have a new drag link, tie rods, etc.
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just read your other post about the bushing problems and then found this one. Like I said, I am planning on doing this rebuild after the rally next month. So, if you can post all of your problems, findings, AND screw ups, it would be most beneficial to all of us. Pics like the ones you have in this post would be great too!

By looking at the seal, I would have to agree with Articifer - most seals have the lip on the inside, BUT, was it dual lipped like Wes said it might be? Was it instaaled from the inside?

Thanks
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1079
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, 32sbct, how did the rebuild go? I am asking is because I am in the process of rebuilding my spare box and would like to hear any suggestions you might have for a successful rebuild.

Thanks,
Matt
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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