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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - technical
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technical

 
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oddball
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Joined: Mar 08, 2013
Posts: 20
Location: Edinburgh/Scotland

PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:32 pm    Post subject: technical Reply with quote

what engine oil flush should I use in my m38a1 before I change the
filter and oil.

cheers
oddball
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wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator


Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no reason to flush the oil system on a normal oil change. Are you having some specific issue with the engine?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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oddball
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Joined: Mar 08, 2013
Posts: 20
Location: Edinburgh/Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

engine is sound, I just came back from doing a round trip of 102 miles last weekend I was staying in SCOTLANDS SECRET BUNKER,

the jeep ran well I was so proud of her she she sat at 50mph on motorway with no hiccup.

I was in the garage last night and I dipped the engine level stick to check the oil and she was spot on no leaks on ground but at the top of the lid there was some white gunge and the by pass hose had gunge in it but no white gunge at bottom of stick or in engine so I took the by pass hoses of and cleaned them and took the Rocker cover off and there was no gunge there so changed gasket and put rocker cover back on,

so that is why I posted.

eddie
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wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator


Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The gunge is moisture. Very common and the higher the humidity the larger amounts of white gunge you get. It's not a problem except when you do not operate the jeep for long enough periods for the oil to get hot enough to cook off the moisture. Then corrosion becomes a noticeable problem.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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oddball
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Joined: Mar 08, 2013
Posts: 20
Location: Edinburgh/Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers WES.

your a star mate.

The DVLA in uk said that they would not except a fax copy of your findings for the month and year of the vehicle they want an original copy, so I have
e.mailed my military group and asked them to put your findings on a hard copy and post it to me as soon as I get that I will take it to them and see if they will except it.

I will keep you posted.

Great site.
Thank you
Eddie
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oddball
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Joined: Mar 08, 2013
Posts: 20
Location: Edinburgh/Scotland

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another Problem chaps.

my mate has an M38a1 and he lives in Scotland too and he is a member of the site, he goes by,,,Scotbish.

anyway his fuel tank is pitted with small holes, at bottom.
how would you help us to fix this problem.

he Knows that the obvious one is replace the tank,
but we cant find one in the uk for sale or he would.
maybe someone on the site can help us find one in the uk.

anyway any suggestions on how to repair the tank.

thank you

eddie
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small pits starting to open up and leak on the lower surface of the tank are the result of long term corrosion from the inside out. The obvious repair is to replace the tank skins that display this problem. Not hard for an experienced tin worker. The tank is purged of any fuel fumes then thoroughly cleaned. The detachable parts are removed and the inside of the tank closely inspected. It will obviously need the lower skin replaced so a tin worker would normally cut that skin open and off then bead blast the remaining tank interior then cut out any other bad skins then weld in new skins and grind welds smooth. If you keep the tank full after each trip corrosion will not be a continuing problem and you can avoid playing with the idea of having the tank's interior coated with any of the popular market tank coatings which I do not trust.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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oddball
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Joined: Mar 08, 2013
Posts: 20
Location: Edinburgh/Scotland

PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you

eddie
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