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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - 2430
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2430

 
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3447
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:29 pm    Post subject: 2430 Reply with quote

I'm bumping this over from Thunderbird's original post from 2013, because I am having a difficult time reconciling the recommended paint with color photos and in hand samples of what appears to be 2430.

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=48206#48206

I have seen where Wes suggested adding color to AJP's late WWII Olive Drab or Gillespie's 23070, but doing off vehicle small parts repairs and replacements call for spray cans and one can't add color to a spray can.
And in the end, you do want those parts to match what will eventually be sprayed with a sprayer.

Could we take another swing at latest developments and suggestions for 2430?

Many thanks,
Brian[/img]
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bl5211a
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Joined: Dec 28, 2006
Posts: 344
Location: NC

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i custom made my factory color as no one had correct color.. but its not cheap to custom make..
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Brian
1955 M170
1940 BSA M20
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many jeeps had assorted shades of 2430 on them. Instrument clusters came from the vendor already assembled and painted. These seldom matched the tubs that Willys painted. Tubs, tailgates, fenders, hoods, wheels and grills were painted separately and then stocked on the assembly line and installed as the jeep rolled down the line. Any jeep could end up with several parts that were painted on different days with different temps and mixing regimens. Chassis were painted assembled. If you plan on producing a quality factory class displayable restoration then plan on things not matching like a new Olds or Buick or Ford headed for the dealer lot.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Thunderbird712
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good example of what Wes is talking about is the pictures of an m38a1 getting crated. They are on the 13th page of the historical photos galleries.
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TJ
53 M38A1 (project)
3/28/45 MB factory restoration project
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok,
So here are some paint samples, right inside, lower panel brace.

You can see that nasty gray/blue, the greener shade (24087?) peeling under that, and the base coat appears to be 2430.



What is on the lower inside of the high beam switch is browner than the 24087, but I guess theoretically it COULD be 2430 in an unweathered, and maybe close to as applied shade. This stuff here is pretty washed out.

Brian
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually you only have two colors on the photo. 2430 are both the first layer at the metal and 2430 on top of that and the blue/gray stuff on top. I have said this several times in these posts. Willys painted the M38's per the contract which called for using the 2430 itself with flattener as the primer coat and then without flattener as the top coat. What you have in your photo starting at the bare metal is 2430 flattened, 2430 semi-gloss and then the odd blue/gray.

24087 is darker then the your second layer of paint.

When you find an OD M38 or M38A1 with a separate red or gray primer then you have a body or part that was stripped and repainted.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wes/T-Bird,
I do remember seeing the post regarding using flat 2430 as a primer.

Satin and gloss added to flat paint will make it appear darker, and flattening a satin or gloss paint will lighten it. If wondering what a satin or gloss effect on a dull or flat paint would look like just wet a thumb and wipe it on there. It will dry quickly, but you'll get the idea. Used to do the same thing when wondering what a certain rock would look like polished. I did that to the darker 2430 in the pic above, and it turned darker still.

Lighting and surroundings can have a big effect also when looking at photos. I remember seeing a photo in the pages showing several different colors, 2430 and 24087, and a couple of variations, but one thing that was being pointed out was how the paint on the side of the vehicle appeared to be newer and darker, and more green. The vehicle was sitting facing away and to the slight left, and on a lawn.

So the greener and darker look very well could have been affected by the green background.

I like the look of the 2430 on T-Bird's frame, and have ordered a couple of rattle cans of 2430. Wish I had poured more thought into the matter as trying to rustle up a few more things in a hurry to fill the box and offset that shipping cost was a challenge!

I remembered I sanded the inner wheel wells looking for stencils as the fenders and side panels above the rear wheels have about 1/16" of black paint on them. The stencils are on the inner wheel wells, found under several layers of paint. I did also find red primer mixed in with the mess. If you 'd like to see a photo let me know.

Thanks for all of the help.

Brian
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