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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Finally started working on my M38
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Finally started working on my M38
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:28 am    Post subject: Engine Reply with quote

More progress. I have to make some repairs to the frame motor mounts before I can drop this in.



Last edited by ocwd on Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:03 am    Post subject: Frame Motor Mounts Reply with quote

By the way, those oversized holes are not wollowed out. That is a bubba mod. There was a strange looking motor mount used to get the GPW engine that was in my Jeep to fit.

Last edited by ocwd on Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same type of thing going on. I'll post a picture of it to the bubba mods sticky.
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ocwd
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Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:33 pm    Post subject: Bubba Mod Reply with quote

I'll post a picture of the strange motor mount and the frame when that sticky gets going. The mod to my frame is not as extreme as others that I have herd of.
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 6:42 pm    Post subject: Motor Mount Reply with quote

Now I just have to fix the mounting holes so I can put the motor mounts on.
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 2:47 pm    Post subject: Progress Reply with quote

I made some progress this past week. The engine, transmission, and transfer case are bolted down to the frame. Those parts were painted with rattle cans and the frame was mixed. Both were Gellispie but turned out different shades. I am now primering bolts with a little paint brush and I'll give everything another coat later. The transmission and transfer case need a really good coat as you can see the gray primer showing through. I painted the area where the exhaust manifolds mount. Hopefully that won't be an issue other than some smelly burnt paint later. I have also wire-wheeled my exhaust and intake manifolds. I am toying with painting the exhaust with flat black header paint but that would not be correct. Plus, I really don't want to paint the rest of the exhaust pipes.


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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job Dave! Keep at it!
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ocwd
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:02 am    Post subject: Paint Reply with quote

Thanks Dave, the pictures don't do justice to the paint. It's very dusty but looks nice.
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ocwd
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PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 3:01 pm    Post subject: More Progress Reply with quote

Here is some more progress. Now I have 3 shades of OD. Oh well.

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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Wed May 26, 2010 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice. Keep up the quality work Dave!

One note, you should install your pulley before you tighten down the timing cover. You may have done this already and just removed the pulley. If you didn't and you sealed the cover already just make sure you keep an eye out for leaks.

Another source of initial leaks is the pulley guard. I have leaks on mine because I didn't use the brass washer seals on the bushings that sit between the guard and the pan. I thought thead sealant would work but the bolt goes through some thick gaskets in that area so the thread sealant is ineffective and I don't want to use too much of the other stuff because it can get into the oil.
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Deino
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Joined: Dec 01, 2008
Posts: 64
Location: Lexington, KY USA

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 12:03 pm    Post subject: Re: More Progress Reply with quote

ocwd wrote:
Here is some more progress. Now I have 3 shades of OD. Oh well.


Heh...seems like that would make it more original looking. Smile

Keep up the good work!
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- Dan

1952 M38 (MC56474, 33 108M HQ6)
1953 M38A1 (MD54216, 40-I-160I B-35)
1954 M170 (MD-A10513)
1964 M416 1/4 Ton Trailer (35-138F CT-12)
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MODIFIED
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Joined: Mar 28, 2008
Posts: 353
Location: BrOoKlYn

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

53a1 wrote:
......because I didn't use the brass washer seals on the bushings that sit between the guard and the pan.


Assuming your not talking about the pulley guard "stand-offs" you mentioned as "bushing'. I'm not familiar with a "brass Washer seals ?" for the Pulley Guard via Oil pan. Got a pic you can share? could not find in the TM's
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I messed up. I was describing the bushings that go on both sides of the 'stand off'. Maybe I'm wrong about this but I could have sworn I read that it calls for these bushings to seal the bolt that goes through the pulley guard, 'stand off' and pan into the block.
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16256
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu May 27, 2010 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pulley guard/shield PN WO A1124 gets 6 spacers PN WO 649849. This is on page 28 of the ORD 9 SNL G-740 Sep 55. It also refers you to Pg 46 for the 6 bolts PN H101-0423562 which were superseded by PN H001-0423563. No sealing washers or bushings are listed.
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45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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tkjeeper
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Joined: May 24, 2010
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, awesome job! you give me inspiration. I'm so pumped to pick up my M38A1 in a week! I'll be needing lots of help. Great work, impressive so far, I'll be following this thread.
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