CJ3a in the woods

[Sadler5]

I just purchased a CJ3a that was in the woods for 20 years. I took the head off last night and the pistons looked pretty good. the cylinder walls had slight rust on them. It will not turn over by hand. The transmission is rusted very bad keeping it from turning. I don't want to stress it out trying to turn the crank pulley. I put oil in the cylinders to see if it would loosen up. I know there are a number of you that have been here before. So my question is what should I expect when I get it to turn over? Other comments welcomed?
Thanks,
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[camoRich]

Put mystery oil in both the engine and tranny.
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CamoRich
86 Jeep CJ7/05TJ Rubicon
51M100

[BobW]

What numbers and letters are stamped in the two tags that are screwed to the firewall on the passenger side?

Thanks!
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Bob W. Monticello, NY. 1952 CJ3A, 1952 M38, 1950 CJV-35/U

[Sadler5]

I missed the tags earlier. I just looked and they both are stamped with CJ2A 100893. I posted some more pictures on http://rides.webshots.com/album/578160284fnWMib

I got the head off last night and it is freed up about a quarter turn. I think the valves are stuck from the looks of the ports. I removed the manifold tonight. Thanks for any advice. I think I had better tear it all the way down. Any comments welcomed.

[m38olddog]

I'm impressed that you're taking on the challenge to resurrect that slumbering beast My two cents would be to agree with you... tear it all the way down. Then, when you reassemble, you can make sure all the bearings (rods, crank and cam) will be properly lubed. She might be in okay condition inside now, but trying to turn her over dry after 20 years could do some serious damage. May your patience be rewarded !
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Support our troops, past and present.

Dave
M38A1 2/55, MD81433, U.S. ARMY 2A3514
M100 Dunbar Kapple, ?/51, #15122

[BullRun]

Yes , I am impressed too.

If you are ready to start a restoration I would pull the engine and get it onto an engine stand that will allow you to rotate the block 360 degrees. Check the block for visible defects and broken parts that might interfere with it turning, even if this means dismantling it. If everything looks good, as in rebuildable, set it aside and start work on everything else.

As you work on the vehicle keep putting penetrating fluid in the engine everywhere it might possibly be stuck. Once in awhile flip the block upside down and soak the valves for a a week or two at a time from the side valve block opening. Try turning the crank every now and then. Gradually you will get more and more freeplay in the mechanism. Tap the pistons and valves to create vibration. A plastic faced hammer or block of wood works good. Don't force anything or put any muscle into it as something might break or crack.

A stuck engine like this is a long term project to get free maybe 6 months or even more but it can be done. Then a full rebuild.

My 2 cents and good luck!

[Sadler5]

Thanks for all the input. I loosened the valve adjusters last night on the stuck valves and the cam and crank had good movement. A couple of the valves are really stuck. That's where I will spend some time in the next few weeks.