frame bracket help

[tkjeeper]

I need some help on some brackets for my frame.

These are the brackets in question:

What I'm wondering is of course #1, where is a good location to get hold of some of these brackets, rear shock brackets I believe.
#2, and my main question, what do you folks use for the rivets that were used to attack these brackets? Are they still available? If so where can I get some, or does everone use something else now?

[tkjeeper]

noone?? 1953 m38a1

[wesk]

Hello TK,

I haven't seen anyone selling those brackets. Probably the best bet is to locate a junk frame or fabricate them yourself. You can try shopping the part numbers ORD# 7372506, Willys 800825, FSN 2540-737-2506.

There are two ways to solve the rivet issue.

1-Buy the correct rivets and rivet them back on. The original rivets were squeezed with a powerful hydraulic rivet squeezer. It would be rare for a restorer to have access to these. The alternative method is to rivet with an impact type rivet gun but one large enough to do the job would be just as difficult to locate. The last alternative is to heat the new rivet cherry red and then set it using a more easily located 3X or 4X rivet gun and a heavy bucking bar.

2-Buy conventional carriage bolts in the correct diameter and long enough of a shank so when you cut off the threaded section you have enough shank still protruding through the frame to create the upset (mushroomed) rivet bucktail needed. Then heat it cherry red and drive it as in the example above. An alternative to rivet gun and bucking bar some folks will weld a short stack of washers to the exposed shank making it look like an upset (mushroomed) rivet buck tail.


As a rule when selecting rivet length you will want at least 1 1/2 times the rivet diameter exposed on the back side of the work to form the upset (mushroomed) bucktail.

Rivet and rivet tool sources
http://rapidrivet.thomasnet.com/category/-font-size-5-tools-and-accessories-font-?
http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/install.html
http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/NotesOnRiveting/NotesOnRiveting.htm
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w81.htm
http://www.crawfordproducts.com/solid-rivets.htm
http://rapidrivet.thomasnet.com/category/-font-size-5-tools-and-accessories-font-?
http://www.bylerrivet.com/products/solid-rivets.aspx?cat=44
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/


Carriage bolts

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=12234&googleaffiliate=
http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/products/fasteners/bolts/carriage-bolts/_/N-gj4wat&Nty=0;jsessionid=404aba326fe7da96e268f3bffbad8
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[tkjeeper]

I knew I could count on you Wes. I guess a normal nut and bolt is out eh?

[wesk]

No, A grade 8 or better bolt and nut would work just fine. The preceding post addresses keeping the original factory look.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[tkjeeper]

oh of course grade 8 at least, for me, just to keep this project moving, I may take the short cut for now and use a bolt and nut until I have the ability or better knowledge to do it right(factory). I just assumed there was a readily available replacement out there for what I thought would be common. Thanks again Wes.