It's Running

[Cacti_Ken]

Primed carb. Engaged starter, engine made about 3 revolutions and fired off. But died shortly there after for lack of gas. Reprimed carb. Tried it again. Zero. Poured some more gas in carb. tried it again. Zero. Checked for spark, was ok. Scratched my head. walked around in a cirle a couple of times. Removed plastic plug from carb vent port. Engaged starter again with throttle open slightly, Varooom, varooom, oil pressure up to 80 psi, temperature 180deg. adjusted idle to keep running. Oil pressure running 30psi at idle.





Focus is bad on Oil pressure gage, it is registering 40psi at about 800rpm's estimated.

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Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM

[Bob_C]

Ken, that looks awesome!!
How much of a rebuild did you do to the engine? It looks good!

Starting the engine the first time is always exciting. Its even cooler once the driveshafts and stuff are hooked up and they all spin. And even cooler than that when it moves under its own power.

How much more needs to be done before the tub can go back on? Also, is that high temp OD green on your exhaust? Where did you find that?!
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Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056

[OKCM38CDN]

Congratulations, Ken... I know the feeling of having it start after so long... Most of us have.

Now to get the rest of the stuff done and get it on the road... I have been driving mine since last Labor day reliably and really enjoying it...

Next weekend I have my first parade (Armed Forces Day here in Del City) and a car show on the 3rd of June at Tinker... they do not have a catagory for Historic Military Vehicles, but I have entered anyway... figure I could get lucky and win the $200 prize... (Yeah and jeeps fly... )


Keep at it Ken, you wil never finish it an that is the fun... Ask Maj Ben...

[Cacti_Ken]

Bob, the engine was remanufactured, not just an overhaul. Rebored cyls. new pistons, valves, guides, of coarse all the bearings, oil pump.

The exhaust pipe below the manifold isn't painted.

Hal, you never can tell they might give you a prize for being patriotic and showing up with a piece of history.

In the last two weeks I have had the flaps, tubes and tires mounted and balanced. Last week I put brake fluid in the all new brake system and bled the air out, tightend up a few leaks. I had previously rebuilt the transmission and transfer case. Last week I also put the transmission on the engine. Then after I got it and the engine on the frame the other day I put the transfer case on. Last few days I filled the new batteries with electrolyte and had them on charge. and today I got the engine started.

Tomorrow I want to get the voltage regulator mounted, and polarize the generator. then see if it is working.

I did notice some moisture around the top of some of the head bolts. I'm not sure if the shop put any sealer around the head studs.
I may have to take the nuts offs and check that before I put antifreeze in it.

I guess next is tube up the vent system. And I noticed a couple small water drips from the radiator hoses. Only had one small oil drip from the inlet to the oil filter.

I still have to get the new exhaust pipe and muffler to fit. I put the old pipe and muffler back on to suffice while I got the engine running.

I guess after that comes laying the wiring harness on the frame, then the tub is ready to go on.

I hope I can stay with it now till it is finished with out any interruptions.
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Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM

[OKCM38CDN]

Ken, on your water seepage around the head bolts, try retorquing them, after you get it warm that may help... I did mine 3 tmes to be safe... onece when I replaced all the bits and pieces, after a warm up and finally after it got to temprature... just a suggestion.

Hope this helps...

[Ryan_Miller]

Ken,

That is great news. Gets me excited just thinking about it.

I hope to be in your position with mine in the next couple of months.




Did you get my PM on the tires/tubes?
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Ryan Miller
MVPA # 22010

[Cacti_Ken]

Ok Hal I'll try retorcing the head stud nuts.
Should I do that when the engine is warm, Hot or cold?

I will also have to remove the rear manifold stud and seal it. The machine shop replaced a broken one there. But they drilled through into the water jacket. That cavity is right next to the cylinder wall. And this morning I noticed a drop of water on the nut. Hope I won't have a problem sealing it. I guess permatex should fix it.

Ryan I didn't read your PM until this morning.
A couple of weeks ago I went ahead and had the tire shop put the flaps tubes and tires together. I had a concern that the flaps were really loose on the rim. The fella at the tire shop did a good job of putting them on. So We'll see how the work out.
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Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM

[OKCM38CDN]

Torque the nuts when cold...