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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - 52 M38 CDN Valve Seats Rusted
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52 M38 CDN Valve Seats Rusted

 
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boucher
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Joined: Jan 23, 2006
Posts: 33
Location: Ottawa, Canada

PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 1:30 pm    Post subject: 52 M38 CDN Valve Seats Rusted Reply with quote

I removed the valves last night and noticed the valve seats on #3 and #4 cylinders are badly rusted. I gave the top of the block a light buff with the die grinder (3M blue ) and took a a few pictures of the situation. The pictures are posted on page 2 of the photo galery in the "Boucher" album.
Have a look and let me know what you think .

Thanks

Pete
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Jeff_H
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Joined: Apr 16, 2005
Posts: 62
Location: Winnipeg Canada

PostPosted: Wed May 17, 2006 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you going to get your engine re-built? If so I beleive any competent machine shop can get that back in shape. Any idea what caused the rust? Those gallerys should be dry. Was the engine stored outside with the carb off, or plug out of that cylinder?

best of luck

Jeff
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boucher
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Joined: Jan 23, 2006
Posts: 33
Location: Ottawa, Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm trying to avoid an engine shop, if possible. I think the intake valve #3 was open when it was parked and that's the reason for the rust.

I did another pass with the buffing pad last night and it's starting to look slightly better. I'll take another picture and post it soon
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Bob_C
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Joined: Apr 03, 2005
Posts: 271
Location: Chester County, PA

PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Youre really gonna need a machine shop to do that. A buffing pad isnt going to do much.

That valve has to seal in its seat. With all of that corrosion, I really dont think thats possible. That seat also has to be machined at the correct angle so the valve will properly seat in it.

I know youre trying to avoid a machine shop, but I really think thats your only option right now.
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Bob Collins
1954 M38A1 MD79056
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Jeff_H
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Joined: Apr 16, 2005
Posts: 62
Location: Winnipeg Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that in the long run Bob is right, you need machine shop help. It is possible to hand grind in valves, but your seats appear pretty gone to get the right angle.

best of luck whatever you decide.

Jeff
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16247
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2006 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't work over the top of that block with a tiny scotch brite pad on a high speed. You'll end up with small localize dips and valleys of .001 to .003 that will give you a lot of grief later when the head gasket starts leaking here and there. What you're dabbling in is pro machine shop work with the correct equipment.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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