WOW! electrolytic rust removal

Balvar24 · Member Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191

I'm thinking maybe a Harbor Freight Tarp. One could be had for $20 $30. I've got one now over my m416 holding up about 5-10 gallons of water. The most pressure that a 4' deep tank would see would be around 1.7 PSI. If I spaced 8' long 2x4's on 2' centers, the most force seen would be no more than around 30 lbs. I'm intrigued. I may try some fenders first. I've got some scraps that I can build a tank frame out of. I'll keep you posted.

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

I just pull and cleaned my T90 case out last night. Wow again.

If you've got an area in the yard, dig a hole and line it with plastic. Just keep any kiddies away! When done poke holes in the liner (if you don't care about it), let it drain into the soil, remove the plastic and backfill. Could be a lot of work for a tub sized hole though.

Here is a guy that built a tank to do a trailer frame.
http://www.antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm

Balvar24 · Member Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191

The trailer thing looked pretty neat. Looks like if you aren't careful, you'd be better off putting the money towards soda or sandblasting.

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

Balvar24 · Member Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

Thanks, clean enough for a kitchen table center piece.

RICKG · Member Joined: Aug 31, 2010 Posts: 1741 Location: SO IDAHO

it'll be a shame to paint it huh??
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keep 'em rollin'
RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a

SFCKUNERT · Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 6:06 pm Post subject: Electrical rust and paint removal

Is anybody still doing this?
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___________________________

MSG Andrew Kunert
US ARMY

52 M38A1, 00 Jeep Wrangler

http://andrewsm38a1.blogspot.com/

billybob · Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2013 7:17 pm Post subject: wow!electrolyic rust removal

sfckunert I tried it on My gas tank for several hours and it did a fairly good job. After that I tried the molasses method for about two weeks. Then I rinsed it and poured in about a gallon of small gravel and about a gallon of the molasses mixture. I then made a jig to mount it to my concrete mixer and let it run for about an hour in various positions. I know it sounds like a lot of work but I was VERY pleased with the results. After I rinsed it good with soapy water and dried it GOOD I gave it a coat of "red kote" sealer and as I've already said I'm very happy with the results. U-tube has lot of videos on molasses rust removal. I got the molasses at my local feed store. They are the type made for cattle feed. Mine cost about $1.50 per gal. Don use too small of gravel because there are too many places for it to hang up making it harder to get it out of the tank. Now I know.

DMCarpenter · Member Joined: May 28, 2007 Posts: 97 Location: Denver, NC

I made a tank out of the big plastic containers with a wire cage around it that chemicals come in. I cut the top off. I can get fairly sizable pieces in there. The pictures I saw above with rebar in 2x4's mounted give me an idea to improve mine. It does work well.

jimm · Posted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 11:03 pm Post subject:

I have experimented with both, and have found that sheet steel for the anode works much better than rebar because there is so much more surface area. With rebar, the anode becomes the limiting factor in the speed of the process, plus the crud builds up on it really fast because the action is concentrated. Consider that an inch of 3/8" diameter rebar has just over 1 sq. inch of surface area; four pieces gives you under 5 sq. inches per inch of length. Whereas a piece of sheet steel lining a 5 gallon bucket gives you somewhere around 30 sq. inches per inch of depth (I don't count the back side of the sheet) and much more uniform exposure for the cathode (part being de-rusted). Any thickness of plain carbon sheet metal (not galvanized!) that you can shape will work, but thicker will last longer. A local sheet metal fabricator may have scraps that they will just give you. Junk automotive panel steel will work, too.
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Jim McKim
1952 M38 son-father project
Slowly turning rusty parts into OD parts

SFCKUNERT · Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:52 am Post subject:

Great point. I tried this process over the weekend with the rebar and an exhaust manifold with great results. I'll try ton get some pictures of my setup and the results tonight. In going to try the sheet metal method this weekend.
_________________
___________________________

MSG Andrew Kunert
US ARMY

52 M38A1, 00 Jeep Wrangler

http://andrewsm38a1.blogspot.com/

Bretto · Member Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT

Works great doesn't it? I haven't had to de-rust anything for a while but it's a nice tool to have available.
_________________
Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD

Balvar24 · Member Joined: Sep 05, 2009 Posts: 191

I'm always afraid I'm going to burn the house down.


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