Joined: Dec 30, 2013 Posts: 17 Location: Colorado, Denver
Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:44 pm Post subject: Body mounting bolt question
I am helping a friend put an MB back together, after it was torn apart and stored for 10 years,
He had a body man, (fresh out of school) Bondo all the rough spots in a rusted tub that has been patched with clips from other bodies. (It is a Ford body on a Willys chassis)
Anyway, the owner is mechanically uneducated, and talked me into helping put it back together. Four of the mounting bolts for the tub are captured in the hat sections on the bottom of the tub floor, and they are free to rotate, making it impossible to tighten them.
I suggested drilling holes through the floor, to accommodate a socket, but I thought I would ask the knowledge base here how the originals were handled.
I don't know if the body guy filled any access holes, of if there were cages around the heads of the bolts inside the hat section, so any help about how the originals were done would be appreciated.
Joined: Nov 24, 2010 Posts: 1390 Location: Orem, UT
Posted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:56 pm Post subject:
There are folks that know the MB more than me but that doesn't sound right to me. You may want to go check out the G503 and ask them.
Brett _________________ Brett
'51 M38
PHOTO DIARY OF MY BUILD
Joined: Dec 30, 2013 Posts: 17 Location: Colorado, Denver
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 6:46 am Post subject:
I'm not familar with the G503.
Is it another web site, or a subset of this one? I didn't see anything on this this site that hinted of that title.
Thanks, CZ
Joined: Feb 17, 2012 Posts: 530 Location: Del City, OK
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:10 am Post subject:
The holes that go thru the hat channels are carriage bolt type and go thru the floor and hat channel to the frame mount... the basic way the bodies bolted down did not change very much with the different models...
There should be two in the front floor and two in the area behind the front seats....
Hope this helps... _________________ Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 201001205
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
Joined: Jun 17, 2012 Posts: 159 Location: Minnesota
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:13 am Post subject:
Carriage bolts are not correct for the WWII jeep. I suggest you go to G503 and get advice on the correct style bolts. Note that reproduction body bolt kits for WWII jeeps are pretty expensive, ie, $90. _________________ Dan Schultz
MD20035 9/1952
MC70324 dod 6/52
GPW 14944 dod 4/10/42
K38 Linemans Trailer 4/43
M100 Trailer 01177488 dod 8/51
Joined: Dec 30, 2013 Posts: 17 Location: Colorado, Denver
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:16 pm Post subject:
OKCM38CDN wrote:
The holes that go thru the hat channels are carriage bolt type and go thru the floor and hat channel to the frame mount... the basic way the bodies bolted down did not change very much with the different models...
There should be two in the front floor and two in the area behind the front seats....
Hope this helps...
Thanks, I found a 2 owner CJ2 that had the carriage bolts. The next reply has me wondering.
CZ
Joined: Dec 30, 2013 Posts: 17 Location: Colorado, Denver
Posted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:18 pm Post subject:
DanS wrote:
Carriage bolts are not correct for the WWII jeep. I suggest you go to G503 and get advice on the correct style bolts. Note that reproduction body bolt kits for WWII jeeps are pretty expensive, ie, $90.
Thanks for the reply.
Do you know what the correct bolt type is?
I registered at G503, but have not recieved a conformation yet, so cannot do a search, or ask questions.
Thanks, that was where I started the search. I could not find anything about the bolt type, or how the bolts were installed. Did they go through both the floor pan and the hat section? there are no holes in the pan on this one, and the bolts are not captured inside the hat sections, but are free to turn.
So here I am, hoping that someone can give me a verbal picture of the mounting method for the four forward bolts.
CZ
Take a closer look at the second web site I gave you. Darryl's Garage. He shows where they go and lists everyone as Hex head type bolts and gives their dimensions. My 45 MB bolts all the way through the floor skin and the hat channel. Yours may have had the floor skins replaced and the bolts installed through the hat channel before the new floor skins went on.
Joined: Apr 13, 2005 Posts: 53 Location: Fort Worth Texas
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:21 am Post subject:
On this thread I post the two most likely bolt configurations, one for the earlier MB tub with the square gusset and the other for the composite body MB with the oval hole gusset.
Joined: Jun 17, 2012 Posts: 159 Location: Minnesota
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:21 am Post subject:
Note that on locations 1 & 2 some WWII jeeps had a long bolt with a spring between the nut/flat washer and the flange the bolt passes thru. Mine had them, but I am unsure what jeeps were supposed to have them. May be a GPW thing? There was a discussion about this on G503 a while ago.
Dan _________________ Dan Schultz
MD20035 9/1952
MC70324 dod 6/52
GPW 14944 dod 4/10/42
K38 Linemans Trailer 4/43
M100 Trailer 01177488 dod 8/51
Joined: Dec 30, 2013 Posts: 17 Location: Colorado, Denver
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:50 am Post subject:
Powermwt wrote:
On this thread I post the two most likely bolt configurations, one for the earlier MB tub with the square gusset and the other for the composite body MB with the oval hole gusset.
Wait... did I read that correctly, you have a MB frame but a GPW body?
This Jeep is a cobbled up mess, by a Kansas blacksmith/ Nash dealer, using parts from who knows what.
It is a Willys frame with a Ford body, and parts from who knows where welded onto parts that had rusted. It sat out in a field for years before the PO put it in running order.
The frame is MB431612, April '45, and the body is 215952, made by the subcontractor to Ford. Date unknown.
Whoever did the scab job was not much of a mechanic, thus the questions I have about the right way to mount it.
This is not, by any stretch of the imagination, going to be a genuine restoration, but I would like to get it reasonably correect, if you can over look the bolts being made in China.
Anyway, thanks for the information, I can now drill the mounting holes up through the floor board with a clear conscience.
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