Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 7:59 pm Post subject: Clutch adjustment on my M38A1
The engine came out, a new rear main seal went in, and now the clutch acts like it is slipping. It has plenty of material left, maybe it just needs to be adjusted? Can you adjust it? _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
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Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 9:20 pm Post subject:
Is it as simple as adjusting the lever on the outside of the housing? Its not oil, the clutch was well cleaned with brake cleaner _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2015 11:33 pm Post subject:
I have that and I already looked at that Wes. I lengthened the push rod a bit and I'll test it in the morning. I was just wondering if that was the main adjustment I needed to do. As in, will that enable the clutch to grip more tightly. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 1:27 pm Post subject:
so, just to make sure, I lengthened the push rod, and it now has more travel before it disengages the clutch. Theoretically, should that strengthen the grip of the pressure plate on the clutch? _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
The method for strengthening the grip of the pressure plate/flywheel on the disc is to increase the spring finger tension on the pressure plate. That procedure requires the pressure plate be out of the jeep on the table and that procedure gives you the minimum spring pressure when compressed to a certain height as given in your TM 9-8015-1. If they are too light you must get new springs. They are not adjustable.
What you did by adjusting the rod was to ensure that the pressure plate is completely released (unloaded) when the pedal returns to the up position. Before you adjusted the rod did the pedal have any free play? If there was at least 1/2" of free play then there was no pressure from the release bearing disengaging the clutch. Any clutch slippage would then be attributed to a wet clutch, a glazed pressure plate/flywheel contact surface or weak pressure plate springs.
If your real seal leak resulted in soaking of the clutch disc your best course of action while you were changing the seal would have been to replace the disc, not try cleaning it with brake cleaner. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:19 pm Post subject:
There was freeplay. Probably to the tune of about 1/2 inch. I lengthened the rod to increase the free play to 1 1/4 inch, but aside from it softening the pedal, I don't see any difference. The clutch was fine before the engine was pulled, even with the oil leak. Now it feels like it is always slipping a little. The vehicle takes longer to speed up, and if I give it a lot of throttle, it only slowly speeds up, and I think I hear a faint grinding noise. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
Try getting a borescope inside the bell through the top inspection plate and look her over. Who put the bell & engine back together? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 11:54 pm Post subject:
The local auto shop by where I live. What as I looking for? _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
If you have no idea what to look for then it's best to have someone who does, do the looking. It would take a volume of typing to bring you up to speed on the many things to look for in there. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jun 09, 2011 Posts: 776 Location: Bellmore, NY
Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:33 am Post subject:
Ok, fair enough. Is there something the shop could have done wrong? I'm no clutch expert, but I think all they did was clean it and reattach it to the engine. _________________ 1952 M38A1
Marine core reinforced rear bumper, military transistorized turn signal upgrade, arctic heater, 11" drum brakes, 200L PTO winch, Huffy overdrive, deep water fording kit, RT 68 vehicle mounted radio, Trac Locs front and rear.
www.danhenk.com
There can easily be 20 to 30 "What if they" topics. Best to get a neutral party savvy mechanic to look it over. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Having replaced many clutches...given your description it sounds like you need a new one.
Stick shifts can wear out clutches pretty fast sometimes depending on mileage, road conditions, clutch material, having a heavy foot on the clutch etc.
If you got 100,000 miles on these engines that was a lot of mileage back in the day with probably several new clutches along the way.
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