I wouldn't oil them. If they are very dry and the rubber doesn't like to slide easily I would blow some talcum powder or Tire talc on them and install them.
That goop on the pane gasket you never ID'd. I still hope it wasn't RTV!!!!
Use gasket glue like permatex not RTV's.
In my combo photo above I noted that the area directly below the rear seal was way too clean to be a rear seal leak. I assumed it was clean & DRY there??? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jan 31, 2017 Posts: 72 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posted: Mon May 22, 2017 11:24 pm Post subject:
And last question on this subject I hope, do you not recommend using sealant with these gaskets? I know my photo looked horrible, but local guys suggested to lay down a thin solid bead on either side of the gasket to help hold it down during assembly and to ensure there is a good seal. Sounds reasonable to me so I'm curious if you agree.
That goop on the pane gasket you never ID'd. I still hope it wasn't RTV!!!!
Use gasket glue like permatex not RTV's.
I am actually asking again what type sealant did you use.? RTV (silicon based sealant) or Permatex (hard tack type glues)
Quote:
In my combo photo above I noted that the area directly below the rear seal was way too clean to be a rear seal leak. I assumed it was clean & DRY there???
____________
Joined: Jan 31, 2017 Posts: 72 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posted: Mon May 22, 2017 11:34 pm Post subject:
Meant to reply to that.. I used permatex black silicone sealant, not an etc. And yes, the area around the rear seal was remarkably clean and dry. The very bottom edge where it mates with the oil pan is where it started to get real dirty.
do you not recommend using sealant with these gaskets?
I do not recommend RTV silicon rubber adhesive be used anywhere that it can find it's way into the oils system or pan. Also, do not use it on plastics or plexiglass.
Just get yourself a tube of the dark brown Permatex or the small can version and used it SPARINGLY on the pan side of the gasket. Then lay the gasket in place, aligning the holes. Then I tie thread thru 4 separate holes to keep the gasket still for sure then install the pan.
The reason I don't put the glue on the block is the next time you pull the pan you will not have to lay under her while you use a razor blade to scrape the old gasket off the bottom of the block with oil and gasket shavings hitting you in the face. It is always so easy to lay the pan on the work bench and clean up the gaskets surface and follow my last instructions for gluing the new gasket to the pan again. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jan 31, 2017 Posts: 72 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 10:48 am Post subject:
Alright, back to this saga sadly.
to fix my oil leaks, all I ended up doing was cleaning everything up, added the two tube seals, new oil pan gasket with hardly any permatex on pan side and bolted up a 'new' pan that I did the water trick to ensure there weren't any holes and then filled the motor up with SAE-30 oil. I bolted up the pan similar to a wheel; jumping around from side to side to try and get the pan to seat evenly. While the motor was on my stand, I did what you guys recommended and plumbed everything the way it should be. New 90 degree fittings, new lines, new oil filter, etc. and ran each line to its proper place. Once everything was back in the jeep and hooked up, I fired the jeep up and confirmed I had great oil pressure, generally ranging from 25 - 65psi depending, and the motor held steady at 180-185 degrees when warmed up not that that really matters for this.
I parked the jeep on a flat spot for a few days and not a drop of oil fell from the jeep. Thought I was home free. I started to drive the jeep around town, putting maybe 75 miles on it, and I started to notice some small drops of oil under the jeep once I parked it after driving it for a couple of miles. Started to drive the jeep further and longer, up to 10 miles or so at a time, and noticed that the oil drips would drop quicker and drop more oil. Finally yesterday, after driving around town with my wife for 10 miles or so, I parked the jeep in front of a food joint to run in and grab some take out, I was inside for maybe 5 minutes, and when I came out, I had a 8" puddle of oil under my jeep. Limped it back home and parked it and had two puddles of oil under the jeep in the morning each 6" - 8" diameter.
Originally the drips started with oil dripping off the bell housing like before but the last few days, the new drip started directly below the stock fuel pump (still not hooked up) where the oil filter line connects. When installing everything onto the motor, I made sure everything was snug without over doing it and felt really confident that nothing was loose and leaking when I warmed the motor up and then let it sit for a few days with no drips. Since I didn't touch the welsh plug or the rear main seal, I still feel confident that those two pieces aren't failing. For full disclosure, I did have to remove the motor once again after installing and hooking everything back up. I got caught up in the moment of almost having my jeep up and running finally that I realized I forgot to put the throwout bearing back in. Had to disconnect everything, pull the motor, add the bearing and put it all back together. Stupid move, but it did happen.
So unless I somehow damaged the rear main seal or the welsh plug when removing/installing the motor a few times or somehow didn't get the oil pan/tube seals seated fully, my only other thought would be the SAE-30 oil I used. Any chance that that oil could be too thin for 5000' elevation which allows it to seap through the seals or fittings causing the leak? Since the leaks only truly show up once the motor was been warmed up and the oil has thinned out more (maybe?) it makes it that much easier to seap out and create these big puddles?
You led us down two streets above. You now have oil leaking from the fuel pump plate area and the bottom of the bell housing, correct?
An oil leak that creates an 8" puddle moments after shutdown should leave a very obvious trail!
Oil leaks suck and are a real pita sometimes to track down. But to troubleshoot effectively you must pin point the exact location of the leak. This means cleaning and rechecking many times. I often use a spray on powder after cleaning and blowing BONE dry the leak area. The power makes the immediate beginning of the leak more obvious. After applying the powder I run it a moment & check, then run it a wee bit longer and check and I repeat this till I see the first wet spot in the powder. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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