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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - How to remove steering wheel without destroying it?
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How to remove steering wheel without destroying it?
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w30bob
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Joined: Mar 22, 2017
Posts: 301
Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:44 am    Post subject: How to remove steering wheel without destroying it? Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

Has anyone figure out a way to remove an old original steering wheel without destroying it in the process? I want to pull the wheel on my M38A1, but don't want to tear up the backside with puller jaws crushing the brittle plastic. There are no threaded holes in the wheel for a conventional puller and I know it won't be coming off easily. I think I'm in for a fight whether I destroy it in the process or not...........but I'd rather not, ask I think I can easily repair the current cracks it has.

I'm going to look at some bearing pullers at work today and see if I can figure out a way to mount one on the steering tube. But I'm figuring many of you guys have been down this road already and might be able to share some lessons learned. Any ideas?

thanks,
bob
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kenperkins
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Joined: Apr 14, 2005
Posts: 249
Location: Livermore Ca.

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

some reading;

http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5202
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 15171
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ancient problem.

1-soak with penetrant
2-install & tension puller
3-strike puller
4-repeat 1,2,3 again & again.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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w30bob
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Joined: Mar 22, 2017
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Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup. Sounds like the solution is ancient as well. Laughing

Just figured I'd see if anyone built a better mouse trap.

thanks,
bob
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GPA
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Joined: Aug 07, 2008
Posts: 214
Location: Hungary

PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 5:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can leave the puller on for weeks under high tension and some still won't come off. Possibly the taper is designed wrong.
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w30bob
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Joined: Mar 22, 2017
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Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

Yeah, I'm anticipating the wheel giving me a good fight. I looked at some of the "restoration" pics the previous owner gave me when I bought the jeep and the wheel is never off the steering column in any of the pics. My guess is someone tried to get it.......couldn't.....and just let it be. So it may be a bear. I'll let you know how it goes.

regards,
bob
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1074
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sounding encouraging - I still have to pull my steering wheel to put the new one on. I played around with it a few months back, but didn't get anywhere with it. Maybe I'll start working with it this week off. The hub/drum puller idea is intriguing since I bought one a few months ago to pull a stubborn drum.
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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wesk
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The typical Axle & Hub puller:




The typical steering wheel puller:



The typical improvised Strg Wheel Puller:



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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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w30bob
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Joined: Mar 22, 2017
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Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah......understand the concept now. I think I can replicate that with a 3 jaw puller and a horseshoe (not a real horseshoe, one of the thicker ones from the lawn game). Think they're calling for rain this weekend, but if not I'll give her a go.

thanks,
bob
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w30bob
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Joined: Mar 22, 2017
Posts: 301
Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hold on there, Bobalouie...........I do have a question. What do you guys use in place of the "Adapter 41-A-18-251" in the pic? I'm guessing it covers the threads on the tube and provides a divot for the puller point to engage. I think using any type of socket would break the socket if the puller needs to exert that much force.

thanks,
bob


Last edited by w30bob on Thu Feb 22, 2018 12:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Mike_B
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Joined: Dec 10, 2017
Posts: 213
Location: Southern Maryland

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bob, let me know what you come up with... I'm sure I'll have issues getting mine off as well.

Mike B. Smile
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1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer
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w30bob
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Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure will Mike.

later,
bob
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1074
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been working on mine for a couple of days now. I used 1.5" angle iron welded together in a "U" shape with a bolt through the open end to hold the two sides together. Then I used a 2 jaw puller to pull up on the fixture from under the steering wheel. I installed the steering wheel nut and put a small piece of metal on top of the nut to keep from damaging it with the puller bolt.

I sprayed the splines for a couple of days before I started putting pressure on it. I have also removed the fixture and heated the inside of the shaft a couple of times. Every few hours while working in the shop, I tap on the bottom of the fixture and the puller bolt and crank a few turns on the bolt. So far all I have accomplished is to start bending the edges of the fixture! I'll keep the pressure up on it and see what happens.


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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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w30bob
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Joined: Mar 22, 2017
Posts: 301
Location: Great Mills, MD

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Matt,

Thanks for the update. Stubborn little bugger, eh? I found a perfect sized split plate bearing puller at work and "borrowed" it. I also found a 1" thick steel high pressure pipe cap (just a circular hunk of forged steel) that I can cut a "U" in the middle of to accomplish exactly what you're doing. Got sidetracked for the last few nights and I'm heading to the RedBall meet this weekend........so maybe I can get to mine early next week. Here's hoping you get yours off first!!

Has anyone tried holding a heavy duty soldering iron steering on the nut that you threaded back on? The irons I use for soldering fuel tanks get stupid hot and heat transfers pretty quickly thru a steel nut and rod. It might expand the shaft and splines and then on cooling break some of the rust in the splines. Not saying anyone should melt their steering wheel in place, just wondering if any has tried temperature cycling?

regards,
bob
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wilfreeman
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Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 1074
Location: Richburg, SC

PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, she's not wanting to budge for sure! I want to get it off of there in one piece because it IS repairable, but I don't want to have to spend another $50 to buy another tool I prob won't use again either. I can play around with it a little longer, but I'll prob cut it off in the next couple of weeks (I have a schedule to keep to) if she doesn't give way. Fingers crossed! Good luck with yours also!
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Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
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