Posted: Mon May 28, 2018 7:18 pm Post subject: M38a1 dash hook up for Wes question
Wes I have m38a1 electrical problems. This is going to be a long one. First no juice to light switch at all. I have an ignition switch that has 4 wires coming from it labeled A,B,C and D. A and C are hooked together going to hot wire. D is hooked to 12 and B has 2 wires coming out from it labeled 85 and 27. 27 is hooked to one of the 4 wires on the spider cluster. The other 3 wires on the spider cluster are hooked to fuel , water temp,and oil pressure guages. 33 is hooked to temp guages 36 to the oil and 28 to the fuel guage. 8 goes to the battery guage and 9 which has juice all the time is not hooked up. 40 is hooked up to the dash lights. 17 to dim and bright light on dash. 85 not hooked up but has juice when ignition switch is turned on. 25,15,11 not hooked up but has no juice at all even when ignition switch is turned on. When I turn the ignition switch on and take a multimeter to the wire connector that plugs into the light switch I have no juice to it. I am missing something but can't figure it out.I have looked at the diagrams but can't find some of the wires I have. Can you give me some information or pictures to show me what I am doing wrong.I also have a 5 wire spider wire cluster that I haven't tried yet. Thanks for any help you give me.
The lights don't go through the ignition switch. The main feed is from the regulator harness to the circuit breakers. One of the circuit breakers is dedicated to the lights and is "hot" all the time. _________________ '52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car
Slow down a bit folks. Make sure you read his story completely and take notes.
1- He has an M38A1. NO CIRCUIT BREAKERS except the one inside the main light switch.
2- Yes # 85 if left unused must be insulated with tape or have a dummy connector installed in it.
3 - Shug, you need to tell us the whole story first! As already asked, is your jeep a stock 24 volt system?
4 - That 4 wire switch is a much later manufacture and was not meant for use in the M38/M38A1/M170 series. They are on todays surplus market and fairly cheap so quite a few are being used in our jeeps.
Quote:
First no juice to light switch at all. I have an ignition switch that has 4 wires coming from it labeled A,B,C and D. A and C are hooked together going to hot wire. Make sure this hot wire is #11 and that it in turn is still connected to #10/#15. If the #10 double connector is not fastened to 15 & 25 then you will not have power to the main light switch, horn switch or the ignition switch. D is hooked to 12 and B has 2 wires coming out from it labeled 85 and 27. 27 is hooked to one of the 4 wires on the spider cluster.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE COMPLETE WIRING DIAGRAM LAYING IN FRONT OF YOU AS YOU WORK THIS PROBLEM. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
And have you confirmed continuity from the voltage regulator on Wire #10 to the split connector and then on thru wire # 15 to wire # 11 and the ignition switch and wire 25 to the horn? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
I will take a picture of the wires under dash with the numbers and pit them on here to see. I will be better to explain with pictures. I do have the switch shown above for the m37 on it.
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