Cannon Plug Connector Tools

[RonD2]

Just for future reference (mine and others who may be interested), I researched several of the Cannon plug style connector tools and kits. Like all quality tools, they're not cheap. While many will have success using make-shift tools on these connectors (with plenty of lube and a lot of finesse), there's nothing quite like having the right tool for the job.

Personally, I can't afford expensive tools that don't get used much. Sometimes I find a nugget on flea-bay. Maybe we need a "tool loan" program like one of the other jeep forums has?

https://www.jonard.com/
Jonard KA-260 Insertion Tool Kit, contains one each
A4598 Size 20 tool
A4599 Size 16 tool
A4600 Size 12 tool

Jonard KR-260 Removal Tool Kit, contains one each
R4601 Size 20 tool
R4602 Size 16 tool
R9461 Size 12 tool

Daniels Manufacturing Corp. (DMC) https://dmctools.com/
88-09-001 Insertion Tool Kit
88-09-002 Removal Tool Kit
DMC uses these part numbers for individual tools:

Precisetool Insertion Tools
DAK12B Size 12 tool
DAK16B Size 16 tool
DAK20B Size 20 tool

Precisetool Removal Tools
DRK12B Size 12 tool
DRK16B Size 16 tool
DRK20B Size 20 tool
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[Dmk67]

Thanks for the research and excuse my ignorance but are you saying that to correctly repair/ rebuild a cannon plug using correct tools instead of make shift ones we would need every tool on this list? Were would someone even find these to buy ?
I’m still trying to figure out what tool and were to buy one that I need to crimp the ends on to make new Douglas connectors... 😔
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Dave
Rhode Island
Willy’s MC / M38
Build date August of 1951
S/N MC 31118
Proudly helping her to stay active in her retired years ...

[mdainsd]

You actually don't need any of them. If you come across soldered versions, there is no need to extract the contacts for working on them. I have never seen crimp contacts in any location other than the single pin connectors and they are always crimp, from my experience. YMMV.

When I do the single pin Douglas stuff I drill a weep hole in each contact, then solder the connection. Great results.
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'52 Dodge M37, '42 GPW, '48 FrankenJeep CJ2A/M38, '50 CJV-35(U), '51 M38, '42 WC-57 Command Car, '44 WC-51 Weapons , (2) M1941 Sperry 60" Anti-Aircraft Searchlights, John Deere M-gator, '44 White M3A1 Scout Car

[RonD2]

Hi Dave,
No, you certainly don't need all those tools. The list is different manufacturers of the same products. There are others too.

With insert-extract tools and crimpers you select the correct size tool for the size of the wire and pin or socket in the particular connector you're working on. The numbers "12", "16", and "20" assigned to the tool indicate the connector pin or socket size, and also the wire gauge size intended to be crimped and/or soldered in them. Wire in Cannon plugs is generally not crimped into the pin or socket --- solder only. With Douglas and Packard connectors I both crimp (first), then lightly solder. As mentioned, excellent durable results. Use a little alcohol to clean them up, then a slim coat of No-Ox on the mating surfaces and it's good to go for a long long time.

Those 3 size tools are most common in my experience and that was the extent of my research. I didn't research M38 or M38A1 tech manuals to determine where every Cannon plug connector is or what sizes they might be so I apologize if I confused the issue. It's certainly possible that every connector on these old gals is size 12. My M38 is converted to 12V and the only Cannon plug on it is the trailer receptacle (size 12, which accepts the 14 gauge wire used for lights). You can use one wire gauge smaller (for example, 14 gauge wire works in a size 12 pin or socket). Shouldn't do that on aircraft or the Space Shuttle, but ground vehicles is no issue.

If you do some searching (with patience) using key words like "vintage military crimp tool" you can usually turn up the exact same crimp tool that Wes has posted photos of many times throughout the forum, sometimes for a reasonable price. Unless you're hard over about using period-correct military vintage tools or building a show queen, there are many others that all do the same job equally well. The intent being a sound mechanical bond. I use a Sta-Kon tool myself.

I hope this clears things up. My apology for the confusion.

If you can't extract the pin or socket from the rubber block it's embedded in (inside a metal shell), how can you repair it?

For the curious: https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html
_________________
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

[Dmk67]

Thank you so much for taking the time to clearly explain this to me (and many others I’m thinking). Your explanation really helped to unclouded this for me.
The folks on this site have have so much knowledge and wisdom it staggers me!
Thanks again 🙂!
Dave In RI
_________________
Dave
Rhode Island
Willy’s MC / M38
Build date August of 1951
S/N MC 31118
Proudly helping her to stay active in her retired years ...

[RonD2]

Thanks Dave, but you can thank our Uncle Sam. Along with avionics school, he sent me to a NASA-certified miniature and micro-miniature electronics repair school.

I've probably forgotten half of what he taught me, but I'm happy to pay what's left of it forward when I can!

P.S. I think you're absolutely right about the knowledge and experience available to us all in this forum, and especially the free exchange of it. I'm in the middle of an engine re-build on my M38 and I'm pretty sure I don't think I'd have attempted it on my own without it. Priceless!
_________________
Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari