Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3440 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2020 11:07 am Post subject:
So, if you use your old z tube with the off angle arms, 11-1/2" rod might be correct.
With the new, proper Z tube with 180 degree arms, using the 10-1/2" rod should pull your release cable 1" to the rear. Then you can unthread the clevis on the cable to adjust your freeplay.
It sounds like you have two sets of parts, that when paired properly probably would work. But you've used your old rod with the new Z bar, throwing the geometry off.
As Wes says, ideally take a look at a running M38 or A1, but I'm betting you shorten the rod to 10-1/2" center and you'll be good.
I will update this thread when I have a 10.5" rod (made, borrowed or purchased) with status on if it resolved the issue (at this point I suspect it will) _________________ Tundra (really my name, not my truck)
I happen to have some 1/4 rod, so I first made a rod that was ~10.5" long with bent ends, and when I wasn't happy with that I made another that was ~9.5" long. With no cotter pin hole, I can't really put significant force on the clutch pedal to make sure it bottoms out before the pedal hits the floorboard, but at least I can confirm that 'first contact with throwout bearing' is at a point where the pedal is significantly above the floor and the clutch cable clevis is at about 'half way' of the adjustment range, so this is quick confirmation that the adjustable rod with two clevis ends will get the adjustment in range.
Three rod lengths compared.
With the shortest rod installed and throwout bearing just making contact with pressure plate fingers
_________________ Tundra (really my name, not my truck)
All times are GMT - 6 Hours Goto page Previous1, 2
Page 2 of 2
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum