Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 2:48 pm Post subject: M38 Gauges
I have started working on my instrument cluster and have some questions. (M38 /MC52468/ 'motorpool').
I am bad about asking multiple questions up front so maybe best for folks to pick only one or two for a response.
* I would like to confirm that my Fuel Level gauge is M38. The needle swings with current from a nine volt battery so by using the correct sending unit maybe I got one gauge covered. ??
* The speedometer swings freely when you spin the cable attachment part but the face is rusty, Bubba did his thing and I can't read the' S.W.' number. Should I expect to see an 'A.C.' number if it was one of the M38 speedo gauges? Could this gauge have ended up on a motorpool M38?
* The face of the speedometer does not glow in the dark but I don't have a geiger counter to check for radioactive paint. If the paint does not glow is it probably not the 'bad stuff'.
* Is there a source for replacement gauge faces or maybe the face off of a junked gauge would work? I saw one thread where a guy did a DIY face with photoshop and a printer ... or something. It looked great but getting another military face would be easier.
* Would it be an outrageous faux pas for a M38 to have a military speedometer from one of the later model war jeeps.
Here are my other gauges. I don't see any M38 units. ???
_________________ Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Joined: Oct 02, 2014 Posts: 1540 Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County
Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2021 5:54 pm Post subject:
Did you misplace your September 1955 copy of the ORD9 manual?
I'm sure you found that the markings on the face of your fuel gauge match the numbers listed for it on page 151: Ord# 7728852 and AC-1517561.
So long as the sending unit in the fuel tank is a match and works I'd say you have a winning combination.
Pretty sure the other 3 gauges aren't military. One out of four ain't bad. _________________ Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51
“The only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari
Last edited by RonD2 on Fri Nov 05, 2021 7:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
Well to start with Ron spoke on the subject of researching your part numbers in your own ORD 9. 2nd what does the back of the cluster look like? Third, None of these instruments were designed to be overhauled in the field. They all require special tooling to do the job right. Fourth, What are the part numbers of the senders for any remaining military gauges?
A quick look at the free PDF copy of the M38A1 ORD 9 SNL G-758 will satisfy your curiosity about the origin of the speedo.
Is there a source for replacement gauge faces
My third item above should already answer your question. If not a quick review of your ORD 9's will tell you individual parts are not available.
Would it be an outrageous faux pas for a M38 to have a military speedometer from one of the later model war jeeps.
Main issue will be getting one that matches the drive ration of the transfer driven speedo gear.
My suggestion is stick with the stock speedo and ship it out to an instrument Overhaul Shop. The use new silk screen to redo the faces. Unless I am going for an accurate factory class resto I personally do not waste my time with 60 year old senders and gauges but instead move ahead with modern direct reading gauges that work no mater what happens to the battery or generator. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
I like the weathered look of the old gauges but if they and the needed senders are problematic then more frustration awaits my efforts.
There are several vendors who sell temperature & oil pressure senders with the promise that they will work with M38 gauges but maybe they are talking about their repo units.
Many things to ponder. No quick fix here.
This kettle goes on the back burner for awhile.
Lots of stuff on that back burner. _________________ Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Just as we answer your questions it would help if you would answer our questions.
Sorry. I intended to follow through with some answers / pics but most of my time on the site is done flopped back in a lounge chair with an old ipad that is not always friendly with the photo gallery up load process .... in fact that is my real-time location right now. I use the desktop computer when pics are needed.
Ron: Yes. I did get info on all the gauges but confirming my conclusions with you guys is always best before spending money ... ask me how I know
Also, my research is perhaps unorthodox. I find all the ‘Red Letter’ words on a thread topic where Wes gets tired of using the Socratic Method of education and just lists a summary of the needed info., like all the number variations one can expect on a M38 speedometer. I then go to the albums and cross reference the numbers with the pics. Finally, if there is any more needed data I go to the manual part numbers (knowing in this case there are different clusters that go with at least two different MC number ranges) ...... same with instructions on how to do stuff. Some may call this cheating, others may see brilliance in the method.
I took apart the main can (bezel/lens/face/needle/back screws) but did not mess with the guts.... may practice doing a cleaning job and experiment with replacing the face.
The speedometer I have is not on the M38 list. It is off a... I forget... let me check.... ah, there it is:
Wes. “For M38A1's after SN MD70114 the clusters ORD# 8376619 were provided by AC PN 1582890 and SW PN 502Z. Speedos used with these clusters were: ORD#7760396, AC# 1580260 & SW# 503A used with Cluster ORD# 7418835 (These were luminous units) up through MD70114 and Speedos ORD# 8376375 AC# 1582373, SW# 503C & AL# EO-12205 used with cluster ORD# 8376619 (after MD70114), 7954878 (Early M170) & 7954879 (Late M170) (these were non-luminous units). ”
Which explains why it does not glow in the dark and why I don’t need to buy a geiger counter and a hazmat suit. The thing is, I read all the threads I can find on a topic and if Wes is wrong about something then I sure will not be the guy that spots it. Maybe one of those other guys.
Time to look up threads on speedo vs drive ratio.
I know about the need to match gauges/senders and found the needed numbers. I will contact the vendors and press the issue... asking “does your sender (which is not off a M38) actually work with an original M38 gauge” ???
Gauges are a mine field with folks offering NOS/take off 'M38 gauges' for sale with numbers that don't look right. There is also the 'does it work' issue. Yeah. Lots of reasons to use repos.
Here are pics of the back side.
_________________ Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Except for the color, that gauge cluster looks exactly like the original cluster I pulled off my M35 when I decided it was time to rewire the truck. My cluster was painted a nice faded turquoise color or what ever color Civil Defense vehicles were painted. How did you remove the bezel off the speedometer?
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