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oilleaker1
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Joined: May 14, 2009
Posts: 972
Location: South Dakota
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 Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Both Rick and I also spaced the heater away from the toolbox face. I paid attention so a vertical tube would clear the dash face also. Works fine. John |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
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Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 8:59 am Post subject: |
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Rick, I liked your idea of adding the ball valve to the water flow in the cab. Is that just an ordinary off the plumbing shelf valve at the hardware store?
With using it, do you find that you can lower the output temp by reducing the flow or is it not really effective? Should I go thru the effort of adding one is what I'm after.
Brett
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Brett
'51 M38
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1741
Location: SO IDAHO
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| Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2015 11:35 am Post subject: |
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Yep Brett-off the shelf ball valve. Don't really use it for heat adjustment, just on-off flow. Have the valve at rear of head too. Thought shut-off in cab handy w/o popping hood. Max spacer front of toolbox to rear of heater 1/2" to avoid clearance problem with diffuser and lower dash.  Next Gen diffusers will be finished today so Bretto, Oilly watch your mailboxes!
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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Bretto
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Location: Orem, UT
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Bretto
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Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2015 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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| oilleaker1 wrote: | | Both Rick and I also spaced the heater away from the toolbox face. I paid attention so a vertical tube would clear the dash face also. Works fine. John |
So I just sat my heater unit on the floor to see it where it sits. I don't see how a vertical tube can clear the dash face. With the unit up against the toolbox, the blower's opening is slightly behind the dash face.
Rick, from your pics, I matched the numbers of your heater to mine and they are identical. Does your blower's opening sit under the dash slightly?
I just put in some expanded metal on the backside like yours and sweated in a ball valve. Did you anchor your tubing to that 1/4" hole on the blower housing? I am thinking I will, to eliminate any stress at the heater core joint.
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Brett
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RICKG
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
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Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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Fancyness! Looks like something I should talk into. 
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Brett
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RICKG
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| Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Bretto, Let's talk hoses, have you purchased hose yet? I found that the Gates hose I used is a loose fit on the copper tubing at the heater core. Obviously that copper tubing is not barbed. Have been dealing with coolant leaks (more weepy than leaky here). As long as you're sweating copper why not mod a coupler at the tube end to create a field expedient barb. I test fit a pc of hose cutoff on the bench with a copper mock-up this PM and am liking the tighter fit and will mod my own later.
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Good idea and that tubing is pretty malleable to. I could see it getting crushed out of shape trying to seal a leak. Got a pic or a link to a pic of what you used as a barb? Suppose you could make a lip at the end of the tube with just a loop of copper wire sweated on.
I haven't bought my tubing yet.
Did you drill a hole in your floor for the front ear of the heater unit or just use the rear mounting ears. Its hard to put a drill thru a perfectly good floor.
There's these. Kinda bulky though in my opinion.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Brass-PEX-Barb-x-Female-Copper-Sweat-Adapter-UC600LFA/202270573
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Brett
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wesk
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Bretto
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Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2015 5:22 am Post subject: |
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Great ideas thanks Wes.
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Brett
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2015 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Rick,
Got my diffuser in the mail today. Thanks buddy, that will work nicely. Looks pretty good on there to.
Cracked me up when I saw you put my name Bretto on the box.
Just waiting on a 12V motor I ordered. Hope it works. I did get the stock one that was on it to run. It was just a bit rusted in place seizing it. If the 12V one spins too fast for my liking, the 24v one may just be perfect. I found it neat that the stock one runs in one direction only. No matter how you connect it.
And yes, if John doesn't like the color, he'll have to get out his crayons.
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Brett
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RICKG
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Location: SO IDAHO
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| Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 9:43 am Post subject: |
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Glad you like it! If it fits a little loose on the nozzle a bit of duct tape will give you the friction you need. It should swivel 30-45 deg, nice!
Happy New Year Pal!
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a |
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Bretto
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Joined: Nov 24, 2010
Posts: 1390
Location: Orem, UT
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| Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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Here are some pics of the final install. I made the plate cuz I was too much of a wus to drill holes in a good floor and tool box. 
I know those resistor coils are supposed to be up stream in the cool air flow but the heaters design doesn't allow for it since it sucks the air thru the core instead of blowing thru it. If it fails, I will still have a high setting.
Few things to button up but its making heat.
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Brett
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4x4M38
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