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charging system
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aforests
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Joined: Oct 06, 2014
Posts: 252
Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 4:41 pm    Post subject: charging system Reply with quote

I am having a problem with the jeep not charging. When I start the jeep and unhook the battery cable, it kills the jeep instantly. when it is running an I check voltage, it does not go up no matter the RPM. I am finishing up the resto, and had all the parts (stock 24v, generator, regulator, etc.) but this is the first time hooking them all up and using them. I have gone through the generator and tested it by hooking a lead wire from the volt meter to the c pin and b pin for a short period to the battery positive. got to 32 volts so I know that is working. Before that I had polarized the generator by touching the starter post to the b pin.
Pretty sure I have a problem with the regulator. I had gone through that and cleaned it and made sure points were set right, but that is it.
By the way all wiring is brand new, except the cable that goes from the generator to the regulator.

I carefully took the top of the regulator off and started the jeep, I saw nothing happening. Turned the jeep off. pushed the double points down on the circuit breaker portion of the regulator and the generator started squealing like a pig. Had to unhook the battery to get it to stop. Probably not the smartest thing to do, but I did it. Anyone know why it would do that?
I have the 1825b portion downloaded, but not sure how to proceed from here or if I'm capable. Unless someone has some suggestions, I may have to find someone that can bench test this or check it out.

my regulator


my generator

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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you closed the reverse current relay by forcibly closing the contacts you delivered 24 volts to the generator and tried to motor it over. The belts resisted the rotation of the pulley which is to be expected. Yes, not the brightest thing to do. We often check the armature and fields of the generator by supplying 24 volts to it and it should turn over just like an electric motor but we always disconnect or at least loosen the belts.

So based on your polarizing and full field test and your unintentional motoring over of the generator we know the generator is good to go.

Next step remove the generator to regulator cable completely. Next ohm it out. First ohm out each pair of pins (at both ends) A to A, B to B, and C to C. Do you have zero resistance (continuity) on each?

Next at one end or the other, check A to B then A to C, then B to A and B to C, then C to A and C to B. Did you get any continuity between any of the pairs of checked?

Next check for continuity between each pin on one end and the cable's braided sheath. A to sheath, B to sheath & C to sheath. Any continuity shown?

Let me know how the cable assembly checked out before we proceed.

You said you were reading a volt meter. Have you replaced the amp meter with a voltmeter? If you did what have you done with wire # 8 and # 9? What wire did you connect the voltmeter to?
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Wes K
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aforests
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Joined: Oct 06, 2014
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply Wes. I will check the ohm readings tomorrow and let you know.
I taped off the two amp wires and got a 5 wire spider and plugged one of those wires into the volt gauge.
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don't have one yet you should definately consider a battery cutoff switch. Makes regulator work a lot safer, especially for your new harness.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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aforests
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Joined: Oct 06, 2014
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk wrote:
Next step remove the generator to regulator cable completely. Next ohm it out. First ohm out each pair of pins (at both ends) A to A, B to B, and C to C. Do you have zero resistance (continuity) on each?
Yes, each one has continuity.

Next at one end or the other, check A to B then A to C, then B to A and B to C, then C to A and C to B. Did you get any continuity between any of the pairs of checked?
No continuity.

Next check for continuity between each pin on one end and the cable's braided sheath. A to sheath, B to sheath & C to sheath. Any continuity shown?
No continuity.

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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cable is good. One last check. The exterior of the cable should be checked for continuity from threaded connector to the opposite end's threaded connector.

This direct ground between the generator and regulator is very important as is the ground from the generator to the front engine plate and the front engine plate to the frame.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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aforests
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no continuity when touching the metal threaded ends but there is when touching the brass rings around the braided sheath. Does this make sense?
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Aaron
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2016 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you clamping the rotating threaded section solidly to the main sleeve?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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charlesfitton
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aforests wrote:

I taped off the two amp wires and got a 5 wire spider and plugged one of those wires into the volt gauge.


When you taped these off, did you connect them together?
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aforests
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

charlesfitton wrote:
aforests wrote:

I taped off the two amp wires and got a 5 wire spider and plugged one of those wires into the volt gauge.


When you taped these off, did you connect them together?


No
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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aforests
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk wrote:
Are you clamping the rotating threaded section solidly to the main sleeve?


Ok, I'm getting continuity now.
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK cable is good. And you checked for a good ground at the strap between the front engine plate and the right engine mount tower?

This brings you to cleaning contacts on the regulator and checking condition of contact springs.

Then after you ensure you have a quick disconnect on the batteries follow the procedure for adjusting the regulator step by step in the manual. If you do not feel totally technically comfortable doing this I advise removing both the generator and the regulator and taking them to an auto-electric shop along with a copy of the manual.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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aforests
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wesk wrote:
OK cable is good. And you checked for a good ground at the strap between the front engine plate and the right engine mount.


I have a ground strap from the front of the generator to the frame. Do I need another?
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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wesk
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PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2016 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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aforests
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Location: South Dakota - Aberdeen

PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I broke down and ordered a solid state regulator. Very easy to install and once I got my belts tightened correctly, the thing works great. Charging system is now functioning great.
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Aaron
1950 M38 - #MC11328, 24volt, 1948 CJ2A (Lefty)

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