Joined: Oct 29, 2015 Posts: 154 Location: Karlskrona, Sweden, Europe
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 3:38 pm Post subject: A ticking noise
As I wrote on my project thread, she is up and running again. BUT I can hear a ticking noise, like the noise from an unadjusted valve. I can hear the ticking loud and clear in the tub under the dash, but I can hardly hear it if I open the hood and listen close to the engine. I can't hear it at all if I crawl under and listen from below.
Joined: May 30, 2014 Posts: 3447 Location: Texas Hill Country
Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 4:15 pm Post subject:
It could be several things, Jan-Olof.
You can try and pinpoint the noise by using a long screwdriver or other
metal tube or rod. Put one end touching the inside of your ear and the
other on various places on the motor. If no luck there try the bell housing.
This can at least put you in the area of the noise.
You haven't finished localizing the noise yet. try removing the floor center panel and then drive the jeep and listen. If you can't locate the noise lying under the car or with the hood open then most likely the noise is behind the floor panel or the dash. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Oct 29, 2015 Posts: 154 Location: Karlskrona, Sweden, Europe
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 7:24 am Post subject:
Wes, Brian, Bill and Tim, thanks very much for the very good and fruitful feedback. I have tried all your suggestions in your feedback, using Brians method, an iron pipe acting like a stethoscope. I listened at every position you suggested.
Finally I found the source to the ticking noise, it is the high performance ignition coil (that the former owner put there) located in the back of the engine compartment, on the wall to the tub.
The coil is ticking loud and clear and you can hear it very well when engine is on idle, when higher speed on the engine all other noises drown this particular noise. The coil also became extremely hot, I burned my finger touching the iron coil.
I started to suspect something electric causing the noise, as it disappeared emediately after switching off the ignition key, that was long before the engine stopped.
So now comes my next question: Why is the coil ticking and why does it get really hot??
Is it just because it is of poor quality (maybe made in China), or is it not matched with the electronic transistor driven box taking its input from the joints, making a strong signal to the coil? Or do you have other suggestions?
You could check it with an ohm meter for obvious poor readings (less then 1 OHM primary & less than 4m Ohms secondary) but often times an arc caused by weak insulation is not always detectable with a resistance measurement.
I would just substitute a standard 12 volt 60's/70's vintage auto coil.
I see two red leads connected to the primary +. There should only be one. I will guess one leads to the ignition switch. Check and see where the other wire leads? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Oct 29, 2015 Posts: 154 Location: Karlskrona, Sweden, Europe
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:36 am Post subject:
Wes, my experience of Fluke multimeter says that it is almost impossible to get any accurasy at all below 1 ohm, but I will try. The coil is bought from the largest car parts dealer in Sweden, as being "a general purpose coil", just two months ago, so it couldn't possibly be worn out, the only thing I can think of is poor quality together with the electronic ignition.
One of the red wires on the coil comes from the fuse holder and should be called "high positive" , the other is the positive to the electronic ignition box.
I mean, the first coil got over heated and caught fire, the asphalt filling was boiling and the bucket and the asphalt were on there way to drop downwords under heavy smoke when I noticed the fire, I was laying upside down under the dash looking for faults at that occasion.
What are you calling "electronic ignition"? Here that term applies to computerized engine controls. A brain box that controls the engine by monitoring several operating parameters and then varying ignition and fuel flow accordingly.
If you are referring to the pointless distributor modification that simply replaces the mechanical points with a hall effect sensor that triggers the coil. If this is what you have the coil primary may be wired incorrectly.
Joined: Oct 29, 2015 Posts: 154 Location: Karlskrona, Sweden, Europe
Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2016 11:22 am Post subject:
Wes, in the earlier post you reffered to ignition switch, that could be a more accurate word for it, it is a little printed circuit board with one driver transistor, one effekt transistor, and some resistors and capacitors connecting the transistors.
This board take the signal from the points in the distributor, make it a more well shaped opening and closing signal sent to the coil. It is not hightech at all, but it makes the points less stressed (as you were talking about in a thread a couple of days ago) and it makes a sharper pulse to the coil. The result will be a much stronger spark in the plugs _________________ //Jan-Olof
1961 M38A1
1955 Roset/Polynorm trailer
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