Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 7:44 pm Post subject: Resistance on companion flanges.
I rebuilt the transfer case and tranny recently. I just reinstalled the trans and T case into the jeep. I torqued the front companion flange down to 110#. I turned it to get a feel of it, and there was a fare amount of resistance. Went to the back and same thing. Now as for end play and there was .06 on the back shaft and it didn't call for end play on the front. Without tightening the front or back companion flanges, they turn effortlessly. My question is, is the resistance due to no gear oil in the tranny or T case? I did use plenty of assembly lube in the rebuild process. This is a Novak master rebuild kit. They swapped out the open bearing for a sealed one on the front of the T case. How much resistance should there be? How would one measure this?
Thank you.
Rusty _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
Describing a feel on rolling resistance is a real PITA. The way it is measured is by placing a beam type inch pound torque wrench with a socket on the yoke nut and determine how much torque is required to brake the yoke loose and start turning it. Then that would give you a quantitative figure to compare with someone that had a fresh case on the table they can test the same way.
With the transfer in neutral my experience has bee very little resistance that I can overcome with my wrist. With the transfer engaged then it increases to a wee bit of forearm needed.
Did you use either of the two rebuild guides linked below? The Novak offers a tip on seating the bearing cap that the Willys Tech procedure doesn't mention for the end play adjustment. And yes you only adjust end play at the rear output shaft.
Joined: Apr 23, 2008 Posts: 92 Location: Kansas City
Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 7:17 am Post subject:
Did you install the felt dust seals on the flange? Sometimes you can get a real thick felt seal and when you tighten the flange down it will cause a bind. _________________ Bill
GP, GPA, GPW, M38, M38A1
Bantam T-3, M100
MVPA #1196
Joined: Feb 09, 2014 Posts: 178 Location: Tri Cities, Washington
Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 9:36 am Post subject:
I did, then I removed it to see what that would do for me. When I get a chance I'll try to lube the seal and see if that helps. It may be ok. I did follow the Novak instructions and followed a video on YouTube. I can turn it with my hand, it's just not as easy as before I rebuilt it. I may be making something out of nothing.
Thanks. _________________ Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
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