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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Knuckle housing, front axles rebuild and kingpin bearings
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Knuckle housing, front axles rebuild and kingpin bearings

 
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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 344
Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:06 am    Post subject: Knuckle housing, front axles rebuild and kingpin bearings Reply with quote

I am in the process of rebuilding my front axle. I have read a lot of the posts here and have read both the civilian manual and the military rebuild manual.
I am having a hard time finding the NGLI 1 grease. I thought I had found it at NAPA but when I called to order it they indicated that it wasn't an item available for order. I did finally find some at Amazon but they want about 3 prices for it. I have been able to find the NGLI 0 grease as it is corn head grease and I can get it at John Deere and a few other places. Unless someone has a source they can share I will probably use the corn head grease for the front axle.

In reading the rebuild process it seems to indicate that the kingpin bearing should be packed with wheel bearing NGLI 2 grease and that they get additional lubrication from the grease inside the knuckle housing. Is this a correct interpretation?

As to the axles. Years ago, before we had access to these manuals we just packed the bendix axle with wheel bearing grease NGLI 2 and when down the road. Now that I have the manuals I will use the NGLI 1 or 0 in the knuckle but as with the king pin bearings do you pack the axle joint with wheel bearing grease before you re-install it or do you re-install it and then fill the knuckle with the proper lub to the bottom of the hole. From reading the rebuild info I don't see where it says to repack before installation.
I would appreciate any clarification that can be offered.

One last question.
Wes, in one of your posts responding to someone about the axles and reassembling them you indicated that you could use saran wrap to hold the axle together for installation. If I understood this correctly I guess you leave enough saran wrap sticking out to be able to pull it off after inserting the axle? The post was http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=10701&highlight=saran+wrap.
In this case the person was using grease when reassembling the axle.

That is my quota of dumb questions for the day.
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R G Mutchler
M274A5
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
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Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The correct answer is the pivot bearings (king pins) are always hand packed. No the loose grease tossing around in the hub will NOT repack them for you. Especially the upper one. Using any liquid lube in your hub depends on the condition of your hub spheres and how well they seal. In most warm climates 600 WT liquid lubes will almost always leak. SGLI "0" or "1" are for use in cold weather. "2" is for summer use. The original early manuals addressed the timeliness of hand packing the pivot bearings (king pins) by requiring it every time the hub is disassembled. You'll find the requirement for hand packing the pivot bearings on page 265 of your TM 9-8012 at the top of the page.

You will always find disparities between manuals. note the 8012 lube chart note 6 says at 12,000 miles when doing wheel bearings repack the hub but they also tell you to not disassemble the axle "U" joint. Now go to the CJ2A/3A lube chart in the SM 1002 and you'll find that they require the complete change of grease which dictates re-hand packing.
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Wes K
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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
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Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Wes
The discrepancies in the manuals are a pain sometimes. Actually the civilian manual SM1002 6R says to use NGLI 0 in the winter and NGLI 1 in the summer in the steering knuckle. That is why I decided to use the NGLI 0 since I am having a problem finding the NGLI 1. It was my inclination to pack the axle knuckle bearings upon reassembling the axles but the military and civilian manuals expressly say to pack the king pin bearings upon reassembly but neither makes that statement for the axle joints. Having redone the bendix type axles in my mule I know it is much easier to use some sticky grease and a magnet to get the ball bearings back in.
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R G Mutchler
M274A5
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
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Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will this stuff work?
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-extreme-duty-3-moly-lithium-complex-nlgi-2-grease-14-oz-cartridge
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Brian
1950 M38
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rgmutchler
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian,
It is a grade 2 grease, I can find that, the SM1002 specs call for a grade 1. Grade 2 is just a wheel bearing grade grease. Thanks for looking
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R G Mutchler
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far a drive is La Grange, Ralph?

http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/Mobile/marketer-locator/

Probably a lube dealer closer.
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Brian
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4x4M38
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2016 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also,
You might check the specs of the manufacturers recommendations on the various grades you are looking at. Here is a Phillips 66 spec for Triton 220 or their Red Multipkex.
Note the temperature ranges for 0 and #1.


TRITON 220 GREASE OR MULTIPLEX RED GREASE 2
Notes
c. Alternative recommendations: -4°F to 86°F, 1; -22°F to 50°F, 0

You might have 0 or #1 running out of your knuckles in the middle of August.
I think that is what Wes was getting at.

Take care,
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oilleaker1
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Location: South Dakota

PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once you have hand packed your knuckle bearings and re-assembled, Corn head grease is good and also constant velocity joint grease. It needs to be thick enough not to leak out, but fluid enough to get thrown around in the knuckle. Chassis grease won't. After all of this, the big problem is water gets in there from fording streams and ends up in the lower bearing and rusts it out. Just one of those maintenance things. John
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rgmutchler
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John,
Thanks for the reply. I have been using corn head grease in my post hole diggers that always seem to have defective seals and in the steering gear box on my M274. There is no rebuild kit for the steering box on the mules and my lower seal had started to leak. I cleaned it out and filled it with the corn head grease 7 or 8 years ago and it hasn't leaked a drop since. I knew I could find the corn head grease for the knuckles but was really surprised that I couldn't find the NGLI 1 grease. I live in a farming community and I can usually find most stuff I need. I have spoken with some folks, including one who does all the MVPA convoys and he uses cornhead grease in his gear boxes and differentials on a deuce and says it works great and does away with the leakage.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't use it in my differentials unless they were already junk and getting too noisy then it would help quiet them down until they died. The cornhead grease will entrap metal filings and dirt and leave it between the gears whereas the hot 90 weight gear oil will drain off the gears to the bottom of the housing where you can drain it with the trash.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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skyjeep50
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm using John Deere Corn Head Grease #1 in my front steering knuckles on the M38 and M38A1. Seems to be working very well. Also use it in the steering gear.
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