RPM's (rpm changes when turning and stopping)

[usma41]

I think I asked this before but I don't seem to see it on here, anyway, Has anyone any idea why on a left turn the RPM's increase and on a right hand turn they decrease to the point of almost stalling. Also if I take the head of a screw driver and tap the side of the fuel bowl, it will increase the RPM's. ?????????

[Ryan_Miller]

Sounds like a sticky float valve.

I would say it might be a good idea to take the carb apart and clean it.

Wes is the guru (amoung others ) here and may have a better answer.
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Ryan Miller
MVPA # 22010

[wesk]

The float could be bent leaving one side higher than the other causing the bowl's fuel level to change during turns or it may even have a cracked or broken mount ear.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[usma41]

I just discovered that the spring and pin are missing from my float assm., would the engin still run without them? I suppose it would because thats what it's been doing (But not very well). Can anyone tell me if the spring and pin are NAPA stock items or where I can get them, I don't want to buy a whole new carb just for that. (The spring and pin in the float valve assm.)

[OKCM38CDN]

You might check ACE hardware, they carry a variety of misc hardware... among them are pins and springs... may not be exact but meet your need...

Also call John at Midwest Military and see if his parts kit for the carb coms with them...

[wesk]

Hello Rich,
I see from the thread on Fuel Pumps you still have this problem. Since installing the missing float hardware in your carb apparently did nothing for this RPM drop issue in turns and rapid deceleration then I would look closely at the items in the system on which hard turns and rapid deceleration can have a noticable effect.

1-Carb float level. You say this is now correct.
2-Induction air system. Perhaps a loose item here that moves and temporarily blocks incoming air. An overfilled oil cup on the air filter can cause this. A loose choke plate or throttle plate in the carb can cause this.
3-Fuel tank dirt can slosh around in the tank and cause a sudden reduction of fuel flow.
4-A loose screw inside the distributor can roll around and short out the coil.
5-A loose wire terminal can bounce around and short out or open an ignition circuit.
6-A loose tub or other frame part can pinch or bend a fuel feed or vent line or hose when turning or stopping suddenly.
7-A loose object inside the fuel tank cap can plug the vent in turns and slow her down.
8-Mechanical issues in the drive train can suddenly impose much heavier loads than normal causing the reduction in RPM. Something as simple as a spider gear lock up problem.
9-A loose part in the fuel pump may be moving around and changing flow.

These problems can be tough but you just have to look harder at items not normally considered in the normal flow of troubleshooting.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[usma41]

I think it's time to take it apart, I noticed some fuel seaping from the manafold throat gasket. Would anyone know what to use if I where to remove the clutch inspection plate and spray some kind of degresser on the plate (but not the throw-out bearing) in case there's some grase or oil on it?

[wesk]

It's pretty tough to get any solvents directly on the clutch flywheel or pressure plate faces. If you get the really large can of spray brake parts cleaner and run the engine with the clutch pedal fully depressed and actuating the pedal slightly in it's bottom 2" of travel while spraying with the straw so you can direct the spray as close as you can to the top of all four faces and occassionally stop the engine with the pedal fully depressed and continue spraying then start her up again and work that low area of the pedal again. You may have to repeat this 10 or 12 times to make any noyicable headway.

More importantly you want to determine where that oil is coming from.

There are three normal choices. The rear main crank seal and the welsh plug at the back end of the cam will cause engine oil to contaminate the clutch and a tranny gear oil leak past the input shaft can get gear oil on the clutch.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[usma41]

I belive I have a good shot at it through the Clutch inspection plate just forward of the trans shift lever.