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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - cracked distributor cap
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cracked distributor cap

 
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Bobber
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Joined: Feb 09, 2014
Posts: 178
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:37 pm    Post subject: cracked distributor cap Reply with quote

Could this cause hard starting? It progressively got harder to start till it wouldn't start at all. So I replaced the cap and rotor along with points and condenser.
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Rusty, 1952 M38, Koenig hard top.
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16261
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didn't tell us what the result of your corrective action was. Does it now start easier?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Bobber
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Joined: Feb 09, 2014
Posts: 178
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cranked on it and it wouldn't start. So I'm getting batteries charged up. Then I'll try it again. It was starting with very little effort before all of this happened.
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Bobber
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Location: Tri Cities, Washington

PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, it cranked right up. Batt were low, and it was a little flooded. It started up a few times just like it always did. My concern is I just put a new cap and rotor, points and condenser less than 1000 miles ago. I grew up on points and condensers and I never had this much trouble. First I just changed out the cap and rotor, didn't start. Then I replaced points and condenser. I'll keep the points because they don't have much ware an them. What's eating these things. I will say the first cap and rotor didn't come from Midwest. Maybe that was my first mistake. What would cause the cracks on that dis. cap?
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wesk
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What would cause the cracks on that dis. cap?


Improper torque. Loose or worn distributor shaft bushing. Overseas rotor with dimension problems striking the cap towers.

When installing a new rotor or cap I prefer to remove the distributor, Thoroughly inspect it including the governor below the point mounting plate. Check the shaft for looseness. Make sure the little anti-rattle spring collar is on the lower tip of the shaft. Then with the new cap &/or rotor installed I spin the shaft and listen closely for any tick tick noises.

Condensers, capacitors and coils last longer in the military distributors if you keep the vent system hooked up properly plus you insure against ionized gas explosions within the cap.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

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Bobber
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Joined: Feb 09, 2014
Posts: 178
Location: Tri Cities, Washington

PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The distributor is a fresh rebuilt from Midwest last year. I do have the vent system hooked up with 40 thou metered hole for ventilation. I can only think that the aftermarket distributor cap was to blame. When I was fitting the cap to the housing I noticed that one plug wire didn't come down all the way into the tower. So I loosened the wire on the outside of the dis housing and made sure it was pushed down into the top of the distributor housing before it was tightened down. Then I replaced the cap into the dis. housing.
Thank you
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