Points and Condenser mounting

[cabinfever]

The points and condenser are attached to the breaker plate in the distributor. Can I remove this plate, with the points and condenser still attached as a unit? I would prefer to swap out the parts on my benchtop. Or, do I have to keep my old back hunched over the fender and use magnifying spectacles to the job in place?

Also, what is especially hard to get at it that terminal screw. I cannot use a screw driver to remove the screw because the screw head is below the edge of the distributor. I can remove the screw with a small ignition wrench, but cannot replace the screw with it.


_________________
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association

[wesk]

Steve, When distributor access is limited I just pull the distributor. They don't get removed and inspected enough as they should now. If you replace the points you will be re-adjusting the timing anyway. If you do piddle with it the way you are wanting too remember that cam assembly fits more than one way. Use the TM 9-1825B 1952 edition and if you don't have it handy download the appropriate distributor pages from our downloads page.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[cabinfever]

Thanks, Wes. I was mainly checking for future reference. However, on Friday I will be replacing the coil which requires the removal of the terminal screw. That screw is a pain in the keister to get back in (I found that out a couple years ago when replacing the condenser. It took me hours to replace the terminal screw.)
_________________
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association

[wesk]

Invest in those mini gripping screw drivers.


For slotted screws
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008C0ESJ4?psc=1


for phillips screws
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-K14-Phillips-Tip-Screw-Holding/dp/B00093DYE2/ref=pd_sim_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00093DYE2&pd_rd_r=ZKZXQA498M1RPYDEQWTV&pd_rd_w=YIXXk&pd_rd_wg=j8SMI&psc=1&refRID=ZKZXQA498M1RPYDEQWTV


Slotted or phillips spring blade grippers

This one is my favorite for slotted screws:

Center, internal blade is spring loaded and controlled by the little twist knob at the top end of the driver.
http://www.tools-plus.com/ullman-d2.html
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[cabinfever]

Screw drivers won't work on my terminal screw. The majority of the screw head is below the edge of the distributor.
_________________
Steve Stark - 1955 M38A1 MD #85388

Member - MVPA #35153
Member - Red Bull Historic Military Vehicle Association

[wesk]

It works on mine. there's enough sticking above the ledge to get her started with my short (4") slotted screw starter. I've done it with a small magnet as well. Also when changing points in the distributor on the jeep just loosen the terminal screw enough to slip the points up. When I need to disconnect the wire to the coil from the points for troubleshooting I will disconnect the end on the coil.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php