Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 9:16 am Post subject:
INTERESTING! I'll be going to O'Rielly shortly to buy fuel and vacuum lines, so I'll see if they sell it - worth a try. Thanks for the link Ron! _________________ Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 7:57 pm Post subject:
Hey Bob - did you get yours off yet? Mine finally popped this afternoon after removing the puller, cleaning the exposed threads, applying heat and more WD40 Rust Penetrant and reinstalling the puller. An hour or so later I turned the puller bolt a couple more turns and it popped loose - finally!
After I pulled the old wheel off, I cleaned the threads and tried my new wheel on for size. I didn't put it on tightly - just wanted to make sure everything fit. I don't really like the green color - I might paint it black like the original.
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 9:28 pm Post subject:
I know my '54 wheel was green - didn't know if the late model ones were black or not. _________________ Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
Joined: Mar 22, 2017 Posts: 301 Location: Great Mills, MD
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:15 am Post subject:
Yeah, everything I've read says the original Sheller wheels were solid green resin (plastic). That makes it a bit harder to fix an original cracked wheel, as the epoxy or glue used has to be tinted the exact color green or you end up having to paint the whole wheel. I'm planning on using a dental epoxy for teeth.......can't wait to see the expression on my dentist's face when I ask for some OD tint for the epoxy!
Turns out I'm not going to Red Ball this weekend due to weather.........so maybe I will get a chance to wrestle with my steering wheel. Going to go out and see if I can find the freeze penetrant.....looks like a cool idea (pun intended).
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 7:20 pm Post subject:
I repaired my '54 wheel with epoxy and painted it 24087 - has lasted 21yrs (6yrs in use). Are the later models supposed to be THAT light (like mine)? If they are, that's fine, but I think forest green or black would look better.
O'Reillys said they normally carry the Freeze off, but didn't have any - they ordered it. I went back to pick it up at the stated time 2hrs later - they said it had burst and had to re order. I didn't have time to wait around town all afternoon (had a Jeep to work on!), so I said I would pick it up Saturday morning after work. But, of course, I don't need it now! I guess it will sit on the shelf until I run across a rusty bolt - that shouldn't be too long working on a 50yo Jeep! _________________ Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
Joined: Mar 22, 2017 Posts: 301 Location: Great Mills, MD
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 5:32 pm Post subject:
Hi Matt,
The story on the green color of the new wheels is the person who first had them made cut open an original wheel and matched that color. At least that's what's said on the Ebay listing. I think it was QTM that had them made first? I figured all the repop wheels are coming from the same place..........but maybe they're not and the colors are different. Where did you get your wheel from?
I swung by Advance Auto last night during a lull in the storm and bought their last two cans of Freeze Off. I was hoping to get to try taking it off today, but yesterday's NorthEast'r knocked my power out until this afternoon and I've been outside cutting up fallen trees and clearing debris. Maybe tomorrow. I'll got out there first thing and give it a good soak with the Freeze off. Then by the afternoon it should have seeped in real good.
Hope everyone in the Northeast is ok after the storm.
Joined: Mar 13, 2006 Posts: 1079 Location: Richburg, SC
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 6:33 pm Post subject:
Yeah, that's who I got mine from. I've bought a good many parts from him and visited his store/warehouse once - I could spend many hours there! Actually, I will be in Atlanta in a couple of weeks and plan on going again while my wife is at a convention (day trip).
Anyhow, the steering wheel looks pretty much identical to the one that I just pulled off except for the color. I guess it's not that big of a deal - it just stands out more than I like.
Let us know how the Freeze-Off works. I picked my can up from O'Reilly this morning. _________________ Matt
1953 M38a1
1964 USMC M38a1
'51 USMC M100 trailer, '54 M100 trailer, '90 M101a1 trailer
Http://wilfreeman.wordpress.com (M38a1 build blog)
http://m38a1usmc.wordpress.com (USMC M38a1 rebuild blog)
Joined: Mar 22, 2017 Posts: 301 Location: Great Mills, MD
Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:46 pm Post subject:
Hi Matt,
Found time to futz with my jeep this afternoon. Put the Freeze Off on liberally and let it sit for a few hours. Then before coming in for the night I installed a puller and "assumed the position". Got it good and tight and will give it another turn in the morning. This might take awhile.
Part of the problem I see with the varied pullers being used is all except the original GI one seem to have a tendency to pull inward on the sides of the puller as they pull up and this tends to compress the plastic hub a bit at it's upper surface which I think is causing some of the prolonged pulling attempts. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Mar 22, 2017 Posts: 301 Location: Great Mills, MD
Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:22 am Post subject:
Hi Wes,
Yeah, I did think about that. I checked the cracks in my wheel very carefully as I tightened up the puller. If the wheel was "cupping" from the forces you describe I suspect the cracks would decrease.........but they didn't. The bearing puller I'm using fits the circumference of the rear hub of the steering wheel perfectly, so I'm not pulling/pushing on the spokes of the wheel with the puller. That's not to say that all forces are directly thru the outer splined insert of the steering wheel.......but most are pretty close. I'm about to head out now to re-tighten.
Since your plates are lifting perpendicular to the surface of the hub they are not an issue and the cracks would not necessarily close as the outer half of your setup is pulling inboard. However the pinch transmitted thru the steel frame of the wheel will tend to pinch the top of the splined female section slightly. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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