Joined: Dec 15, 2012 Posts: 37 Location: franklin,pa.16323
Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 6:44 am Post subject:
So if I find one of these kits for sale, I would have to find a second tail light with the larger red lens,(as on drivers side) to replace the pass side black out light? and do you have to change the front also? Thanks in advance. Bruce
Joined: Apr 23, 2012 Posts: 67 Location: Sun City, Az.
Posted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:17 am Post subject: turn signals
I plan to use the schematic for a Signal Stat 902 or 903. As I plan to build the whole system without the use of incorporating any of the on board M38 systems except for voltage, I have a couple questions. Because my system is 24 Volt, what issues are encountered with the;
There are 24 volt equivalent lamps for most 12 volt lamps. If you read the instructions carefully I recall one of the signal stat sheets list the correct bulb numbers for 12 and 24 volt indicator lamps in the switch.
Custom installation means you should measure max current draw that the system pulls when you have it assembled and select the next higher numerically fuse or circuit breaker.
For the GI kits if you read the instructions carefully it is made very clear that you need an extra left side light assembly in the rear since the current right side has no red service brake lamp. It also shows you how to add an extra small lamp for the BO stop function if you want to retain the entire BO driving lamp system as functioning.
The same instructions make it very clear that you will need to add two small lamps in the front for the turn signals because the current front marker lamps only have single filament lamps and sockets.
Whatever you decide to do about the front lights be sure to first check with your state's motor vehicle laws and determine what the rearward and forward lighting minimums are. Some states have a minimum candle power for the lamps used, some states have minimum area size for lens, some states have a requirement for the front parking lamps to be on with the headlights and others require them off when the headlights are on. Some states allow the use of the existing front parking lamps to do service as turn signals and parking lamps some require a second lamp or second brighter filament. Some states make special allowances for antique or classic vehicles. Be sure to review them and make sure your motor vehicle folks agree with your assessment of which rules apply and which do not.
If you do not wish to add another pair of light assemblies in the front you can consider modifying your current front marker lamps from a single filament lamp socket to a dual filament lamp socket and replace the light assembly door with the late M151 marker lamp door which has a full amber lens.
You can increase your rear lamp lens area by using the Gama Goat full red rear lens/door that screws right on the existing light assembly.
Finally a word of caution when working with electrical systems. Always read the instructions completely through twice or more if they do not become clear to you the first two times. Review wiring diagrams several times and use a working diagram you write changes and show wiring deviations on as you go. The electrical system doesn't make odd little noises when you have done something wrong. It is very unforgiving and just starts to overheat and burn! _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: May 12, 2018 Posts: 56 Location: Austin Texas
Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 9:02 pm Post subject:
Sorry for dredging up an old post but does anyone have the internal circuit diagram for the switch/control unit on the steering column? Trying to see if this type of switch could be used in a 12V conversion. I would change out the flasher for something more appropriate at 12V.
What is not clear is if the M151 type switches are also some type of transistorized circuit or only the flasher was the transistorized units.
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