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M38/M38A1 Wiring Harness
M38 Rear Carrier Bearing Caps
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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38 : OK, Boomer
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M38 : OK, Boomer

 
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 33

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:12 am    Post subject: M38 : OK, Boomer Reply with quote

Never drive from Central Florida to Central Texas and back without sleep to pick up a jeep you have never seen except in pics. Anyway. Here we go.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zFH2xYuYyeJE7KcV7
[/b]

My first issue for questions on the Tech. Knowledge Base Forum concerns the engine that came in this jeep. See TKB.... ‘Scored Cylinder Sleeves’
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 97
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Body looks good from the photos. Way better than my m38 body.
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i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518
previous title came from New York. Used as plow jeep by PO for 30+ years.
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rgmutchler
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Joined: Sep 28, 2008
Posts: 290
Location: Caldwell, Texas

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From the pictures looks like a good project, the body doesn't seem to be ate up with rust.
As to your first question
See TKB.... ‘Scored Cylinder Sleeves’
I don't know what TKB stand for.
I am assuming some one told you the cylinders were scored since you didn't give us any info about why you asked the question,
seems to me that that question will have to be one to be answered by a machine shop after evaluating the block.
Good luck with your project.
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R G Mutchler
M274A5
M-38 MC13312
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CoastieReid
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Joined: Nov 28, 2019
Posts: 97
Location: Yorktown Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rgmutchler wrote:

I don't know what TKB stand for.


The technical knowledge board
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i have a build thread on Youtube. just type in CoastieReid in the search.
MC 66792 5/52
Hood # 20942580
L134 # MC 91518
previous title came from New York. Used as plow jeep by PO for 30+ years.
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 33

PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello everyone. I have been working on the jeep since Feb. of this year. Unlike April and the ‘Top Dogs’ I have no background in mechanics (except a couple of physics classes) but this site has everything needed to see the basic tasks ahead. Lurking, reading and looking at the ocean of M38 pics helps to at least understand what needs to be done. Skills are harder to come by.

As the jeep starts to re-emerge from a pile of dismantled parts I will use the Technical Knowledge Base forum to drill deeper into the restoration steps.

Don Alvarez
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NECAF1960
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Joined: Nov 28, 2020
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey I am a boomer in central Florida and I found mine 3 miles away,I will leave the cross country trips to you youngsters.[/img]
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 33

PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2021 5:11 pm    Post subject: Body Work Reply with quote

I will create links that follow the progress of each major part of the rebuild.

Body Work
https://photos.app.goo.gl/38NFhPLfd3tHkCW89
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 33

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 9:51 am    Post subject: Re: Body Work Reply with quote

Naugha wrote:
I will create links that follow the progress of each major part of the rebuild. Pics will be added to each album as new things happen.

Body Work
https://photos.app.goo.gl/38NFhPLfd3tHkCW89

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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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snake138
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Joined: Nov 18, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Connecticut

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2021 8:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Body Work Reply with quote

Naugha wrote:
Naugha wrote:
I will create links that follow the progress of each major part of the rebuild. Pics will be added to each album as new things happen.

Body Work
https://photos.app.goo.gl/38NFhPLfd3tHkCW89


Body looks real solid! Great starting place. What are you using to fill the body?
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38
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Naugha
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Posts: 33

PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2021 2:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Body Work Reply with quote

[/quote]Body looks real solid! Great starting place. What are you using to fill the body?[/quote]

Hand stripped (chemical/sanding) everything but the tub. Had a local ‘media blaster’ do the body inside & out. Money well spent.

Unneeded Bubba Holes got a nail or carriage bolt inserted from the back, shaft held with pliers from front, spot weld with MIG, grind flat and surface touch up with JB weld. Yeah, some folks advise against the stuff for filler but on small spots and to smooth out my bad butt welds it works for me.

Be sure to clean the nail and hole edge (both sides if possible) to bare metal.
Remove any galvanized or chrome plating on the nail/ carriage bolt.

I used a HF body work hammer/dolly kit to flatten dents.
Soon I will use one of the standard ‘bondo’ fillers. We shall see.

As these things go, the body was in pretty good shape. Had to replace the front hat channels and patch a section of the passenger side floor. Several small rusted sections were patched (18g SM).

I have never done any welding or bodywork before .... challenging stuff.
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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snake138
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Joined: Nov 18, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Connecticut

PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2021 6:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Body Work Reply with quote

Naugha wrote:
Body looks real solid! Great starting place. What are you using to fill the body?

Hand stripped (chemical/sanding) everything but the tub. Had a local ‘media blaster’ do the body inside & out. Money well spent.

Unneeded Bubba Holes got a nail or carriage bolt inserted from the back, shaft held with pliers from front, spot weld with MIG, grind flat and surface touch up with JB weld. Yeah, some folks advise against the stuff for filler but on small spots and to smooth out my bad butt welds it works for me.

Be sure to clean the nail and hole edge (both sides if possible) to bare metal.
Remove any galvanized or chrome plating on the nail/ carriage bolt.

I used a HF body work hammer/dolly kit to flatten dents.
Soon I will use one of the standard ‘bondo’ fillers. We shall see.

As these things go, the body was in pretty good shape. Had to replace the front hat channels and patch a section of the passenger side floor. Several small rusted sections were patched (18g SM).

I have never done any welding or bodywork before .... challenging stuff.


I went to a local media blast/coatings specialist and his standard rate is $80/hr. I had him try one of my fenders to see how it would clean up and it ran me $50 alone.

The JB weld seems to lay out well enough! I'd be interested to see how strong it holds once it's cured. I'm also going to be attempting bodywork for my first time with my MC so I'm trying to pick up as many informational tid-bits as I can before I get there!
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 33

PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 9:37 am    Post subject: Sandblasting Reply with quote

The blaster guy charged $120/hr x 3hrs = $360 for the tub and some small engine parts. He did a great job. Clean as a whistle inside and out with no warping. Rust & bondo all gone.

Stripper, sandpaper etc for the fenders, hood, windshield, tailgate etc cost me less than $100 and the results were good but the tub would have been a lot of work.... difficult to get to all the tight spots.

I tried one of those sandblasters that use a pressure washer. If you have a powerful PW unit and someone to help keep the sand flow line at the proper angle they can be OK, especially for the smaller body parts. Used along with a chemical stripper, not too bad at all but the blaster guy was perfect, although pricy.

As for the JB weld, time will tell .... it sands easy with an orbital flapper disc and sure looks strong..... again pricy..... traditional ‘bondo’ probably best for larger areas.
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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Mike_B
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Joined: Dec 10, 2017
Posts: 219
Location: Southern Maryland

PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not a "body man" but believe that the modern Bondo's are made to expand and contract with the sheet metal...I can't say that JB Weld, I think it's to hard when set to flex...you may have those spots popping out the first time the Jeep gets hot or cold...my .02 cents.

Mike B Smile
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1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
1951 M100 Trailer
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snake138
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Joined: Nov 18, 2014
Posts: 18
Location: Connecticut

PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Sandblasting Reply with quote

Naugha wrote:
The blaster guy charged $120/hr x 3hrs = $360 for the tub and some small engine parts. He did a great job. Clean as a whistle inside and out with no warping. Rust & bondo all gone.

Stripper, sandpaper etc for the fenders, hood, windshield, tailgate etc cost me less than $100 and the results were good but the tub would have been a lot of work.... difficult to get to all the tight spots.

I tried one of those sandblasters that use a pressure washer. If you have a powerful PW unit and someone to help keep the sand flow line at the proper angle they can be OK, especially for the smaller body parts. Used along with a chemical stripper, not too bad at all but the blaster guy was perfect, although pricy.

As for the JB weld, time will tell .... it sands easy with an orbital flapper disc and sure looks strong..... again pricy..... traditional ‘bondo’ probably best for larger areas.


Did you bring your tub to the blaster or was he on-site? They guy I talked to I would be bringing everything to him, and in my area I've heard around $100/hr for on-site guys.

My biggest dilemma is that I'm worried if I have to pay someone 10 hours to blast everything, I could buy a compressor, pot blaster and media cheaper and do it myself, and then still have a good air compressor for the next couple decades!
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38
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4x4M38
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Joined: May 30, 2014
Posts: 3116
Location: Texas Hill Country

PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake,
A couple of points. You need a good compressor with lots of tank space. Even the Horror Freight pot blasters will pull an inexpensive compressor and tank down in no time. Same with the die grinders. They work great using sanding discs but they eat a lot of air.

The blasters themselves...the cheapie models only come with one round hole nozzle. That’s fine, but in blasting a lot of flat areas a slot nozzle would be much more efficient, plus that big hole again eats a lot of air..

One other thing to think about. It is very easy for an inexperienced sand blaster to heat up thin sheet like our 18 gauge and warp the heck out of it.
After all, guys that do it for a living manage it depending on who you find.

Not saying you shouldn’t try it, just know it isn’t as easy as picking up a sand blast nozzle and merrily wiping paint and crap off.

Take care,
Brian
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Brian
1950 M38
MC11481
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