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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38 Head
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M38 Head

 
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 172
Location: Ocala, Florida

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 8:13 am    Post subject: M38 Head Reply with quote

I am reassembling the head (something I have never done) and want to check on a few things.

* The rings/hooks on my lifting plate are too close together (bent?) preventing me from mounting the Crossover Tube. I saw this problem in another thread but do not recall the best way to correct the problem.

Lock it in a vice, heat it up then hammer away ???
Quench or just let it cool ??






The crossover tube is (supposedly) NOS so I don't think it is the problem.
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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OKCM38CDN
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Joined: Feb 17, 2012
Posts: 516
Location: Del City, OK

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would heat (if available) and bend the eyelets straight. If no heat available the bang at it slowly to prevent damage to the welds... Should not be a problem. If you have a welder you can always reweld...

DO it in a vice of course so as not to damage block, head or studs...

Whichever way you go you will need to repaint or touch-up at a minimum...
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Hal, KB1ZQ
TSGT, USAF (Ret)
1952 M-38 CDN CAR 52-31313
1952 M-100 Strick #104
1951 Willys Wagon (For Sale)
1954 Willys M38A1 (Restoration In Progress)
Tornado Alley
Del City, OK
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 172
Location: Ocala, Florida

PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2021 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

👍 Tomorrow I will give it a go.

Here is what the lifting plate looked like before painting .... it was on the CJ engine that came with my barn find M38. I wonder about those arms.... don't think a Go Devil is heavy enough to bend 'em .... did someone try to pick up the entire jeep? was the original cross over tube pinched? .... is this lifting plate really off a M38? Lots of stuff can happen to a jeep in 70 years.



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Don Alvarez
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M38 Project
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jake138
Site Administrator
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Joined: Nov 18, 2014
Posts: 75
Location: Connecticut

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2021 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Don,

I just took a look back at some pictures of an MC engine off a generator that I used to have and it looks like my lifting hook was perfectly straight compared to the one you have on the left of both photos. The right hook was also slightly bent, but not nearly as much as yours looks.

You may need to dig through some a TM to find a better photo of one, I haven't tried looking yet.
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 15542
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2021 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the last 24 years I believe I have maintained the most complete and useful photo album on this web site. I doubt there is any M38/M38A1 question that can't find it's answer in the web site's 2nd member's photo album! These are all in my L134 sub album.

















These are in my M38 Engine Sub-album:








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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 172
Location: Ocala, Florida

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

(Nice pics. Thanks. I do study the albums, without which this M38 Spruce Goose would have never got off the ground.)
覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧覧-

Yep. Looks like those puppies got snatched and pulled beyond their intended specs.

I heated (hand torch probably not hot enough) & pounded both sides which extended the space between the rings but the crossover tube fit was still a little tite and a small crack opened up at the base of one ring.

These simple things often take me more time/effort than expected. It痴 like, 展ell that looks easy, and an hour later you are still at it. Same with looking up general shop procedures ...... there are always several opinions on most everything. These things happen when a person with little auto background attempts to resurrect a M38 barn find but with patience and perseverance I am usually able to overcome my ignorance and lack of skill.

Any-who, I am going to cut the lifting hook base on one or both sides by 1/2 the diameter, heat 粗m up, bend 粗m straight and weld the cuts solid.

If that doesn稚 work I will cut the lifting plate into 37 pieces, melt the steel in a Bessemer Converter or volcano, extrude the parts for the base & rings, reconstruct the entire assembly and bolt it through the head, block and frame. Twisted Evil
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Don Alvarez
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RonD2
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Joined: Oct 02, 2014
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Location: South Carolina, Dorchester County

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2021 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Naugha wrote:

Yep. Looks like those puppies got snatched and pulled beyond their intended specs.

Third option Don. Put a new one on it.
Would an Army mechanic back in the day do all that cutting and bending and welding trying to save a $5 part, or would he throw it in the scrap metal bin and put a new one on? My bet is a new one.

Just a thought. The power pack weighs 665 pounds. I'm all for salvaging original parts, except for stuff that could cause really bad things if they fail. A new or NOS meat hook is about $45 today.

"Do you feel lucky?" --- Dirty Harry, 1971 Very Happy

Good luck!
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Ron D.
1951 M38 Unknown Serial Number
1951 M100 Dunbar Kapple 01169903 dod 5-51

典he only good sports car that America ever made was the Jeep."
--- Enzo Ferrari

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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 172
Location: Ocala, Florida

PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2021 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi DH/ Ron D.

Little about this project makes sense. Cool
Ah, this may work... now on to the manifold & stuck heat riser.


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Don Alvarez
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