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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Dana 44 rear Hubs
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Dana 44 rear Hubs

 
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sf38a1
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Joined: Nov 24, 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:15 pm    Post subject: Dana 44 rear Hubs Reply with quote

I had to pull my rear hubs . I went to remove the long side first, using a three foot puller . The hub would not budge . I heated it up using my torch , no go . I tried the short side ,same thing . ended up tacking the brakes apart , and removing the 6 bolts holding the backing plate ,and pulling the whole axle ,bearing ,backing plate ,shims, gaskets ,hubs . use my press to get the hubs separated from the axle . had to do both sides the same way . Thing is I just had the rear end apart a couple of months ago . put a locker in it . this time i was taking the locker out . I actually distorted the wheel hub with the puller , and one of the studs sheared off ,trying to get the hub off . Never in my 20 years have I ever had this problem getting the rear hub off the tapered axle . I have ordered new hubs. I have cleaned the tapered axle shaft up with some sanding cloth , Should I use never seize , on the new hubs ,i might have to get in this rear again , I don't want this to happen again .
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RICKG
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Joined: Aug 31, 2010
Posts: 1639
Location: SO IDAHO

PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using this type puller I've never had a problem, patience is required however.
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RICKG MC 51986 DOD 01-52, '50 CJ3a
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sf38a1
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Joined: Nov 24, 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's the same puller that I used to remove my hubs . But it didn't work ,even after heating up the hubs . I had so much pressure on them I distorted both hubs .even broke a stud on one . I've removed hubs many times before ,but never had this issue . Do I need to use Never Seize ? has anyone else had this problem ?
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sf38a1
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Joined: Nov 24, 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does any one use Neversieze on there rear hubs when they install them on the tapered axles . ?
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wesk
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 15626
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a rule a frozen hub is generally the result of:

1 - improper torque on the retaining nut resulting in an over-torqued issue or under-torque resulting in looseness that promotes the development of corrosion deposit buildup resulting in locking of the hub to the tapered shaft.

2 - lack of proper cleaning of the two surfaces of the tapered shaft end and the tapered hub opening leaving loose corroded layers to fuse together and to lock the hub up.

I would ask you 2 questions.

1 - Did you thoroughly clean and remove all corrosion residue from the shaft & hub before assembly?

2 - To what torque spec did you secure the hub nut?

I have a tendency to mention torque spec's quite often. Reason why? These Army service manuals seldom mention any torque specs. They assume the only persons working on these jeeps are trained and experienced motor pool mechanics. Most moto pool managers were well aware of the shortfalls on needed data and spec's issues with these manuals and usually had stand alone shop torque charts for all general fastener torques and specific system related torque specs. The problem here in the civvy world is most hobbyist do not have this work shop management program working for them in their garages. Having been in the vehicle and aircraft maintenance fields for the last 61 years I have learned where to find this often overlooked data and apply it to the daily tasks. You will find that in most cases the civvy manuals have greater detail and spec coverage then your military manuals. Hence alongside your M38 GI Manuals be sure to keep a copy of the Willys/Kaiser service manual for the CJ3A SM-1002 on the work bench. And for the M38A1 and M170 keep a copy of SM-1046 handy. You can find the important parts of these two manuals in my photo album:
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album71&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php for the CJ3A/M38
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album305&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php for the CJ5/6 and the M38A1/M170
You can also find SM-1002 PDF on our downloads page: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=getit&lid=168


SM-1002 for use along with your M38 manuals


This handy chart is in Chapter U of SM-1002


SM-1046 for use along with your M38A1 manuals






The 3 handy charts above are in chapter U of this handy manual.
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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sf38a1
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Joined: Nov 24, 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2021 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes I did clean the tapered axle area . I clean out the Key way ,threads ,and use some crocus cloth . I might have over tighten the Nut . I use the impact gun , I don't remember if I put the torque wrench on it or not . I just had assembled the rear end for a run on Sept 9, and a show on sept 11 . Everything was new , so the only possibility was over tightening. Thanks for your help
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