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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Frame preservation
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Frame preservation

 
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Mjp83
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Joined: Jun 27, 2021
Posts: 49
Location: Carthage, North Carolina

PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2021 4:58 am    Post subject: Frame preservation Reply with quote

Hi,

Working on my 52 M38, I have finally gotten down to cleaning up the frame.
I would like to end up with OD green paint, but need to address the rust first. I plan to wire wheel and use an abrasive disk to clean frame, and then?

1. Oshpo, (clean), Red Oxide Primer, then OD green
2. Use a rust converter, (brand?) Epoxy Primer, OD green
3. No rust conversion, just use epoxy to encapsulate
4. Use some sort of POR15 product, then sand and paint

I really would like to treat the rust, then seal the frame. I have used POR15 and it got so hard that he top layer of paint did not stick. Also, I have had it come off in large chips/ sheets. My CJ got red primer and rust oleum Semi gloss, which was easy to maintain.

Please let me know what has worked for you!

Thanks, Martin
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Naugha
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Joined: Apr 01, 2020
Posts: 409
Location: Ocala, Florida

PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2021 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

These decisions have a lot to do with time, money and expertise so opinions will vary..... here are my Newbie thoughts.

I did all of the frame cleaning by hand with wire brushes, wire wheels, and one of those cheap HF needling tools and it worked fine but not fun.

If I had it to go over again.. Cool ..... It’s just money... Wink .... We’re talkin’ war jeeps here.

Take the frame, body, wheels, manifold and every last darn thing inside and out that is dirty/rusty and may end up painted to a good Media Blaster (not a sandblaster) and ‘get her done’. Heck. Have the guy clean the screws if he can. Getting down to bare metal will set you up for the next phase, body work..... and later primer/ paint. So that’s my 2€. Smile

Yeah. Most folks don’t paint the manifold but clean is nice.

Don
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Don Alvarez
Retired HS Teacher
Central Florida
M38 Project
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Xamon
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Joined: Sep 18, 2012
Posts: 588
Location: South East Saskatchewan

PostPosted: Fri Dec 31, 2021 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could also take it to get tanked, that will get all the stuff you can't see and some of them do an electrolysis rust preventive. Can be costly though. This is not the old stuff they have advanced a lot with the rebuilders of classics demanding better.
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Carievale Saskatchewan Canada
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Mike_B
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Joined: Dec 10, 2017
Posts: 336
Location: Southern Maryland

PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2022 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, send it out for blasting. I had my frame and heavy metal sand blasted. dropped it off on a Tuesday and picked it up on Thursday. Having it done fast really gets you motivated with the project. I then used POR-15 on the frame...as long as it has something to bite onto it will not come off.

I've also had items chemically stripped in the past (mostly gas tanks), but the only shop doing that in my area is WAY backed up and it takes them a long time to get it done and it's expensive (but worth the wait for gas tanks).

Mike B Smile
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1953 M38A1 Brush Truck
1952 M38
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jake138
Site Administrator
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Joined: Nov 18, 2014
Posts: 128
Location: Connecticut

PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2022 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Frame preservation Reply with quote

Mjp83 wrote:
1. Oshpo, (clean), Red Oxide Primer, then OD green
2. Use a rust converter, (brand?) Epoxy Primer, OD green
3. No rust conversion, just use epoxy to encapsulate
4. Use some sort of POR15 product, then sand and paint


Hi Martin,

Welcome to the forums!

I personally had little success with POR15 on another project, and have since never purchased the product again. A friend of mine also had a short life of POR15 with the frame of his truck, so take that information for what it is.

I used Rustoleum Rust Reformer in a spray can to prime literally everything on my Jeep, and I've had good outcomes with it so far. It gives a good base coat and it seems to really adhere to metal that's bare and lightly rusted. If you flake off the big rust and clean what's left, you should have good adhesion. The can says that it undergoes some type of chemical reaction that bonds to the oxidation, and I tend to believe it given how well it actually adheres to the metal. I've hit painted surfaces with a wire wheel and it holds up longer than I thought it would.

~Jake
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627
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Mjp83
Member


Joined: Jun 27, 2021
Posts: 49
Location: Carthage, North Carolina

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2022 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Fellas,
Thank you for the replies, I am working on getting the frame stripped down, and have a quote out for blasting the frame.

Jake, I actually have a can of the Rustoleum rust reformer. What did you top coat it with? A 2 k type primer (2 part) or just regular non hardener primer, like a rattle can product? Some epoxy primer manufacturers warn agains using any rust reformer under their primers.

Martin
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jake138
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Joined: Nov 18, 2014
Posts: 128
Location: Connecticut

PostPosted: Sun Jan 02, 2022 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Rustoleum Farm and Implement Enamel low gloss, single coat brushed on where I could reach. I sprayed the harder to reach areas with a Preval refillable sprayer, thinned with mineral spirits if I remember correctly.

I suppose it goes without saying if you have seen my build thread, but I obviously am not doing a factory restoration. If you want to paint your frame closer to factory spec, you should consult with someone else on the forums.
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Jake, Central CT
51 M38 s/n 35627
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