Axle Castle Nut Removal Troubles

[labmonkey]

Hello, I'm trying to remove a broken rear axle from my M38 with a D44. I removed the wheel and the dust cap, but when I'm trying to remove the castle nut, it just spins with the axle, so I can't get any torque on it. This makes me think that I'm doing something wrong because the manuals just say to remove it.

I've also watched a video of someone removing the nut with an impact gun, while I'm just using a breaker bar. Is using an impact gun necessary? Or are there any tips and tricks to getting this done with hand tools?

Thanks for any advice.
_________________
Cooper
1952 M38

[wesk]

Something very odd about your rear axle tapered section. There is suppose to be a keyway in it and a key that slides in the slot of the axle taper and the hub taper. When you try to turn the axle nut the hub/drum should turn as well leaving you with a need to hold the drum still while you remove the nut. Did you forget to install the key last time?


Item M above is the key.


_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[labmonkey]

Oh sorry, I wasn't clear with my initial post. It does spin the axle and the hub/drum.

The problem is that I need to hold the drum while removing the nut, as you said. Do you have any recommendations on how to hold the drum while removing the nut? I'm thinking I could try clamping the drum to the backing plate, but I don't think that'll do a good enough job holding it in. I was able to wedge another breaker bar against the lug bolts, but couldn't get enough leverage to loosen it. I thought I must have been doing something wrong, but if it's just difficult to get off, then I'll probably give that another shot. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:



Also, I saw those pictures in the TM, and it makes it seem like the angled section of the key should be pointing up, whereas everyone else seems to say that it should be facing the center of the axle. This is also what is shown in the M38A1 TM. Am I just looking at that picture wrong?

Also, I don't think these hub have been removed since 1970, about 30 years before I was born
_________________
Cooper
1952 M38

[wesk]

I am a bit old fashion. When I need to take an axle nut loose I take care of breaking it loose while the tire is still on and setting on the ground!

And to answer your earlier question. Yes the impact gun has a tremendous edge over the breaker bar.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[labmonkey]

Okay great, I'll try it today with the wheel still on. That's a great idea.

I also might have to get myself a cordless impact wrench, depending on how difficult it is to remove. It'll probably also help tremendously with other aspect of my jeep rebuild.
_________________
Cooper
1952 M38

[wesk]

Impact guns are great for removing stubborn fasteners but they can also easily break a bolt or stud if you do not still apply penetrant and allow soaking time. Quality impact guns both electric and pneumatic have a torque setting capability. Be sure to always start removals or installations with the lower torque setting.
_________________
Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

[labmonkey]

Thanks for the advice, getting the wheels on the ground did the trick!

I bought the wrong puller for the hub though, so I'll need to wait for a new one to come in
_________________
Cooper
1952 M38