Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:08 pm Post subject: Engine number found + ...
Hi Guys, I need some pricing help for my 1952 M38A1 Willy's. You can see it in the photo Gallery (Dragnet). I have replaced so much on her it would be easier to say what I haven't. I ask because something has come up and I may have to sell her.
Can you give me an idea of what to ask? New paint, new seats (all), New brakes (everything) from start to finish. Cleaned and coated the gas tank then put in all new steel lines w/a new fuel pump and had the carb. rebuilt. new plug wires, new plugs/points/condenser. New bushings for the Gen. new motor mounts new side mirror, new hoses, flushed and cleaned the radiator, new thermostat, new exhaust system, new shocks (front and back), new shackles on the front bumper with a new authentic bumper rope, New gas pedal (not installed yet. old one still OK) New rubber for shifters, new water pump, new belts, new gaskets anywhere I could, new Batt. gage (in box) ...I think that's it but probably not. She runs really good. Anyway is that enough info to give anyone a good idea of what to ask? I sure will appreciate the help. I will hate to part with her but I guess we do what we have to do. Thanks
Last edited by Dragnet on Sun Apr 22, 2007 8:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
Try to picture yourself as the buyer with limited funds then list everything you would want to know about the jeep before you spent your hard earned cash on it.
Some things that still need to be determined before anyone can offer a fairly accurated appraisal are:
1-Was this a frame off resto?
2-Was the paint job a strip or bead blast completely then reprime and repaint ?
3-Was the engine overhauled?
4-Was the tranny overhauled?
5-Was the transfer overhauled?
6-Were the front and rear axle asemblies overhauled?
7-Were the springs reconditioned?
8-Was a new clutch kit installed?
9-How much of the original sealed military wiring harness is still there?
10-What has become of the military light switch and the trailer receptacle?
11-Why are the windshields so hard to see through?
12-Does it have a canvas top?
13-Are the wheels original M38A1 type?
14-Was the generator overhauled?
15-Does the electrical system operate and charge properly?
16-Does the parking brake system work correctly?
17-Does the serial number on the dash tag match the serial number on the right rear wheelhouse? What is the serial number?
18-What is the engine casting number and serial number?
19-Does the vacuum system, PCV system and wipers work correctly?
Sounds like a lot of detail is wanted but that's what we need to offer a comprehensive and accurate appraisal.
I looked at your photos and it appears from them that you started with a running M38A1 with a fairly decent body and you did some heavy cleanup and a scratch and shoot. The primer showing so many places indicates the paint job is not top shelf. The routing of cables and wires through the firewall do not appear correct.
I may sound a bit critical but you can bet any prospective buyer will be a lot tougher. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:50 am Post subject:
Wes thank you for your input and it's OK I can take it. Plus that is what I am looking for. A real opinion on it. OK here we go.
1N
2 Y
3 N
4 N
5 N
6 N
7 N
8 N
9 I don't know.
10 Don't know.
11 I don't think they are? But they are old.
12 N
13 I don't know.
14 Not by me. I don't know.
15 Y
16 I would say no. But the plate does hit the wheel.
17 No. The dash # is 18103 ans the wheel well is # 18205
18 OK I found this # on the block under where the Gen. is
#646228-W-13-d-AR CUCR Then on the other side under the manifold
#9 15 D then up on top between the valve cover & fire wall
# D 9 12 W2. These are all the numbers I can find. Are there more & where?
19 N
The story is my wife bought it for me about a year ago and I don't know any of the history of it. I talk to the guy she bought it from briefly and he basically said he got it years ago and didn't know much about it. It does run good and it drives good. Clutch feels good but I can't say if anything has ever been done to any of questions 1,3,4,5,6,7,8
As for the paint that would be my fault. I painted it and it was my first one I have ever done. I did take it down to the base and fixed a couple of rough spots then primed it and painted. I did see where I missed some in the engine but was planning on using the spray can to touch that up. I got two can when I bought the paint from Army jeep parts. What do I need to do or try and find out so you can tell me what I should ask for her. I may go though eBay and have a reserve so I don't have to sell it if that is not met (have to try another route). Thanks again and again I can take the creative criticisms. Just keep in mind this was all new to me a year ago and a lot still is. Thanks.
The engine serial number is on the small flat above the water pump.
Are you saying the vacuum system, the pcv system and the wipers are all three not functioning?
Do each of the wheels have one small 1/8" hole near one lug nut hole? _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 8:13 pm Post subject:
OK Wes it's going to take a lot of sanding to get to that number. I could feel a little something with my finger but can't see anything. To many paint jobs I think. I tries to put some water paint on then wipe it off so it would fill in the lines I could feel but got nothing. I will work on that one.
Yes, they have the small hole next to one lug hole.
I just know the wipers don't work. I have no idea on the rest. I have the TM9-8015-1 and TM 9-8014 manuals. I'll look it up in there to see where and what all is involved. Unless you want to educate me now?
I can take a pic of any area you might want to see closer. Just let me know. Also the number on the title is the 18103.
Don't sand it. The numbers are very lightly stamped and any block decking during a previous overhaul makes them even thinner.
Use a paint remover or MEK and a scotchbrite pad
No one has ever come on line and positively ID'd the purpose of those 1/8" holes in the wheels. I think it was for an indexing need at the wheel factory or to help ID the wheel on the production line. This hole is found on two wheels. The stock M38/M38A1 wheels which are 16x4 1/2 and the 4x4 pickup wheel which was 16x5.
The different serials on your tub mean it's either been replaced and the person doing the swap wasn't aware of the tag behind the passenger seat or the complete data plate set on the dash was removed for some reason and the wrong one reinstalled. This could easily happen in a motor pool when tags were removed enmasse to stamp new tire pressures on them or during an inventory.
The missing military light switch and incomplete military wiring harness are an important issue with a sale. Is the entire jeep still 24 volt? How are the lights operated and do they all work?
If the wipers work correctly and you have the dual vac/fuel pump installed then the vac system is probably ok. Make sure the PCV valve is installed and the distributor vent lines are installed. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 6:54 am Post subject:
OK thanks....I will do it very carefully. As for the light switch, it was all gone when I got it. During my limited restore I had a local mechanic wire up the lights to a new pull switch and he hooked up the brake light as well. I know this is far from what it should be but at the time I needed lights and was planning on getting it back to the right switches with a new wiring harness when I had more funds. It is still all 24 volt though.
Also I must have worded it wrong before because the wipers DO NOT work. And I will have to check on the PCV valve. Why can't I find it in my manuals? Where is it? Also I will check to see if the distributor vent lines are installed. I will report back shortly. Again Wes thanks for walking me though this.
BTW I am expecting my new top bow to be delivered today. This is how fast the decision came up to (have to) sell her. I was already starting this years continuation of my restore. I only say this because I probably have to list her by this weekend. So are we almost done so you can give me an idea on what to ask? Also I was planning on eBay or is there someplace better that you know of to list her for sale? _________________ I loved my Jeep!
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 10:10 pm Post subject:
I can't see the number on the block. So can anyone here give me a suggestion for what the selling price should be for my jeeps? Thanks. _________________ I loved my Jeep!
Your jeep has a lot of potential. Little things like a lack of history or resto written and photographed documentation and glossing over things that are not actually restored or overhauled with fresh paint can detract a lot from an otherwise sound jeep. The small things not working correctly force prospective buyers to become wary of the jeep.
I would gues a value between $4000 and $6000. A lot of this valuation means nothing to a buyer but should help you draw a line in the sand.
Ebay has become the buyers treasure trove and the seller's nightmare. To the seller's advantage is the psychological phenomenon of bidder frenzie that often nets a price well above actual true value. To his dismay though are the frenzied bidders who back out of deals. Then when bidders see the same jeep showing up a second and third time on ebay they become wary of it's quality. Sometimes one should just secure an honest appraisal of fair market value, mark it up 10% and post it in the MV buyers ads and settle a quick solid deal. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:47 pm Post subject:
Good news! I got to keep my jeep and I think I found the block number after scotch padding till my fingers were about to fall off. I can see MD 2284 anything after that is really pitted and I can't make anything else out. Can it be only 4 numbers long? and does that tell you anything?
Second, if my batteries are fully charged but I don't even get a click out of the starter what can it be? The last time I started it (a few weeks ago) it turned over fine and sounded like it always has. I have had starters go out on cars and they always give you a notice they are going. I don't get it. Any idea's? Thanks _________________ I loved my Jeep!
That engine serial assures you it is in fact an M38A1 engine and even though the last digit is missing it still looks like it may well be the factory original engine.
Are you in Western Lower penninsula or Western upper penninsula?
Hook a volt meter or test lamp to the switch on top of the starter on the side where the battery cable is attached and if no volts or low volts clean and secure all battery cables but if you have system voltage there then kick the starter pedal while the meter or lamp is connected to the other terminal on the switch. If you get system voltage there and the starter does nothing it's a starter or starter ground issue. If there's no system voltage there or you only read a couple of volts then the switch is bad. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:51 am Post subject:
Thanks Wes, I did take all the connections off and cleaned them well yesterday but got nothing. I will try the volt meter and see if I get anything.
I am in lower west Michigan. Near Holland about 15 minutes east of lake Michigan. Have you ever been here? If you know of a good jeep mechanic near me PLEASE let me know. _________________ I loved my Jeep!
Check the starter switch actuator (kick pedal) and verify that it:
1-Pushes the starter pinion gear all the way into engagement with the flywheel.
2-After the pinion is full aft into the flywheel make sure it now closes the switch by depressing the switch plunger completely.
Sometimes the body tub will shift enough to restrict the kick pedals travel enough to not fully engage the switch on the starter.
It takes two to check this safely. If you are alone make sure she's in neutral and the brake is set and the wheels are blocked. You can actuate this switch manually from under the hood to confirm any suspicions of restricted kick pedal travel. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Aug 06, 2006 Posts: 44 Location: West Michigan
Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:38 am Post subject:
Wesk, I finally got my second person so I could check it. Everything moves the way it should with the starter peddle. I did check the headlights just to make sure they came on and to my surprise they came on real slow and then were very dim. Now this surprised me because I had both batteries on the charger and they showed as charged. Could my batteries be bad? I'm guessing that if the lights won't even come on the starter sure isn't going to turn. I don't know how old the batteries are and I can't see any stamp date on them but they are newer low maintenance. So what do you think? Thanks _________________ I loved my Jeep!
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Forum FAQ
Search
Usergroups
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
