This afternoon I was driving the M38 down the highway and had been driving for about 20 minutes when my engine made almost sort of a bogging sound for a split second. I turn around and see and smell alot oil smoke. I coast down the road with my foot on the clutch, oil pressure good, temp good, give some more gas and a little smoke comes out again. Im about 200 yards from the house so I drive in the drive way, no more smoke? I can rev it up and can not see any smoke. If i see any its at full throttle and even then its BARLEY noticable. What did I do? I did notice some oil dribbles dripping down the dipstick tube but when you take the cap off and run the engine there is no noticable blowby? I adjusted my valves not too long ago. Ever since the jeep has been running again a sticking valve has been buging me. Im wondering if its not that. It sounds like a sticking valve, it will tap along with the engine, but is not always consistent, like its sticking and is starting to free up. Not sure now. Ive already spent more on the jeep than I wanted too, I hope that a rebuild is not in the future but im afraid it may be _________________ 52 M38 sn 65788
Getting Close!
I am not a "certified" engine guy, but I know a bunch of people use a quart of marvel mystery oil in place of engine oil with their oil changes. They have also stated that MMO helps with stuck lifters/valves. Again I have never used it in my engine but I use MMO for just about everything else. I am sure someone else will chime in.
Joined: Oct 06, 2006 Posts: 194 Location: Zephyrhills, Florida
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 6:32 pm Post subject:
Chimeing in, I use MMO in all my vehicle, including the Suburban. Just substitute one Quart. The M38 has my 12,000 miles on it and the Suburban has 200,000.
Joined: Dec 02, 2006 Posts: 115 Location: Bloomfield, New Jersey
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:34 pm Post subject:
I'm not a certified engine guy either, but my mechanic who is, swears by Marvel Mystery Oil in older engines. He told me to always put a bottle full in my L134 engine at each oil change. He also said that a little in the gas tank doesn't hurt either! Good luck. Dennis.
Well I have been a professional mechanic since 1960 and I don't swear by any of the mom's old remedy additives. These vary from doing nothing but making you feel good to just temporairily relieving symptoms. If you have a valve sticking my advice is fix it. What you experienced was probably a valve sticking open and oil getting sucked into the cylinder which gave you the loss of power and smoke.
There's no scientific evidence to support any of the many elixars out there. But if it makes you feel good and helps you sleep at night then use them.
As for Marvel Mystery Oil except for maybe a slight twist of the ingredients it is nothing more than old Ford type F ATF which since the 40's has been used for the same reasons many folks use MMO. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
The head comes off and the side cover comes off. My experience has been that you are always in a "Pay me now or pay me later " arena with mechanical toys. That has several meanings, one of which is if one is failing the others are close. With that said the advice I offer is this:
Begin only after you have the Willys shop manual in your hand!
Make sure you have storage capability for the parts as they come off and a way to segregate them in the order and position they come from IE #1 Exh, #1 Int, and so on.
1-Ascertain the overall condition of the engine while it is still running.
This means do a compression check and record the results. A leak down test would also be handy here as well. Now you know which cylinders are weak and where to look when you get the head off.
2-Remove the head an look closely at the cylinder bores, head and piston tops. These will tell you what has been going on in there. IE avery large amount of light gray or light tannish deposits indicate a correct to lean mixture. Black sooty means rich and black gooey means oil.
3-Get a socket to fit the crank pulley nut and turn the engine over slowly and watch each valve closely as it opens and closes. This is where you will spot those that stick open a little due to either guide choking up or weak springs or both.
4-Now pull the keepers and springs but leave the valves in. Now you can move each valve up and down and try to wobble it in the guide to check for wear of the guide and see if the valve stem is sticking in the guide. Those you find sticking will need to at least be reamed clean. Check to see if each valve rests squarely on it's seat. A little prussian blue and spinning the valve on it's seat will let you know weather the valve seals well on it's seat. The previous leakdown/compression test would have alerted you as to which valves to be suspicious of.
5-Do you have removable seats already installed in the block? Are the seats sealing? Are they eroded or damaged in any way. If you find troubles here then it is time to gring the seats and reface the valves. If you find no troubles here then a little lapping compound and a valve lapping stick will make the seats seal just fine.
6-If you don't have the tools to check valve spring rates take them to an auto machine shop along with your shop manual and have them test them..
7-Inspect each valve stem for straightness and mininum diameter per the manual. Check their heads for being bent or warped and faces for damage. Replace any bad valve NOW. Any valve replacement will usually require a seat regring. This problem will force you to an auto machine shop.
From here just follow the manual and be sure to pre-lube everything. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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