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1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter
Transfer Case rebuild issues
Zerks causing trouble.
1952 M38 converting to 12V
M38A1 Slave Bucket location
M274 A3 Mule For Sale
flywheel advice
conversion from a 12 volt system back to a 24 volt system
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M38 ignition points condensor

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JustenWilson
Member


Joined: Oct 15, 2006
Posts: 27
Location: Andrews Texas

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:01 pm    Post subject: No start Reply with quote

Hello guys hows it goin'?

I have question for you guys. My jeep back fired on me the other day just scared the crud out of me! Wes you told me to check my timing and my point gap. I have yet to try it waiting for some time off at work to do it. But why would this go bad? I mean it ran so sweet and smooth, and all the sudden its running all junky like. So i guess my question is what would cause this to happen? However what i did do is change the oil because i thought the oil in my gas could be my problem, but before i changed the oil and started it up and it fired right up just ran a little ruff and couldn't accelerate it without killing it. So i changed the oil with exxon hd30 weight and some lucas oil stablizer and now the thing will not start at all. I think the lucas screwed up my jeep! Its real thick and glue type paste, real yucky stuff. I just can't get why this thing would run so well and all the sudden i'm back at square one with this machine, always goes back to this point. Runs really ruff, i will be buying a new military carb for the jeep here in a week or so. I hope this fixing the problem but if you guys could help me understand whats going on then maybe i could be more patient with this project.

Once again guys i appreciate all the help.
Justen W.
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maeserik
Member


Joined: Jun 14, 2006
Posts: 226
Location: Wijnegem Belgium Europe

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your condensor ( capacitator ) besides the contacts is bad.

I had the same expierience before the condensor dies.
Replace it and everything goes back normal. I changed 3 times this part during one year, everythime the same problems. I think there are good and bad replacements....

with a bad condensor you have uncontrolled or no ignition..
for one and a half year i have a mutt solidstate ingition build in the distributor and since then the jeep keeps nice driving

Erik
_________________
1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgallery.php?cat=1865

and this webside
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wesk
Site Administrator
Site Administrator


Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 16249
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's tough to remmeber how all our 400 members jeeps are set up. You'll have to remind us what sytems you are using, weather stock or civvy, or 24V or 12V.

These vehicles are dinasaurs compared to the new vehicles you can drive 200,000 miles on the same set of plugs.

We old timer's that grew up with these machines are very aware how fragile they are and how quickly they can get off kilter. The need for frequent adjustments (every 1500 miles or so) and short lived electrical ignition component (3,000 to 10,000 miles) replacements were lessons not forgotten.

I doubt very seriously that a change in oil caused your problem. Before you throw a lot of money at the items that aren't broke I suggest you do what I suggest everyone do. Get the manual out and find your symptoms and follow the troubleshooting chart step by step.

When you complete the charts then bring your results here for review.






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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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