Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 7:55 pm Post subject: Spark plug wires
Hi all,
I see that Walcks sells the military spark plugs wires for $20 cheaper than some of the other venders such as Midwest Mil. $125 against $145 from the other venders. Has anyone purchased them from Walcks, and if so, have you been satisfied with them?
Just be sure you are getting what you need and want. The M38 and the M38A1 do not use the same set.
Original M38 uses leads with 90 degree nipples on both ends:
3 each 7528174 (#2, 3 & 4)(19 3/4")
1 each 7528173 (#1)(23 3/4")
Original M38A1 uses leads with straight nipple on each end:
4 each 8328449 (about 22 1/2")
M151 uses leads with 90 on one end and straight on the other:
2 each 1160569-1 (#3 & 4)
1 each 1160569-2 (#2)
1 each 1160569-3 (#1) _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Thanks Wes. I'll call Walcks today, and see what they think about the M38A1 set they sell. Carl is pretty honest, if they are not right, I'm sure he will tell me. If not, then I will go with MidWest Mil. They have not been wrong yet, it just takes a little longer to get as they are farther away.
Just keep in mind that the plug wires when bad will introduce a roughness consistently irregardless of the timing setting. They also will tend to get worse under a pulling or acceleration load.
The list of tips you got on WT were not in a very good order. Some of the items on the list cannot be contributing to your problem. Carb problems are not part of your issue.
You should get back to the very basics.
1-Verify that with #1 top center on compression that the TDC mark aligns with the pointer. Do this accurately. Use a plastic rod or better yet a TDC finder at the top of the piston to make sure the pulley mark is correct. If it isn't then make a new mark on the pulley.
2-Then rotate the engine backwards 5 degrees to the 5 BTDC mark. Remove the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing towards the #1 wire tower of the cap. It will be just a few degrees before perfect alignment with the #1 tower. If it is much closer to another tower then your plugs wires are in the wrong tower.
3-Make sure the points are set at the high point on the cam to .020" gap. When you have the engine in the 5 deg BTDC position the points will be just starting to open.
I believe I asked you earlier if this problem has begun at the very first start-up of a fresh engine or was the engine running fine and without you touching anything it suddenly started running poorly or did this start after you had adjusted or changed something. I really need an answer to this question to provide any meaningful help. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Does the water proof spark plug conductor have a solid wire or a graphite core? _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
Thanks, sorry I did mean to say stranded. Yet I was thinking metal core.
What would it be made of? stainless steel, nichrome, neither???
I wonder how many years I can get on a new set of water proof wires if the vehicle is kept in a building out of the weather an only driven 1500-2000 miles a year? _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
The books don't breakdown the core wire composition. I would guess either copper or copper coated steel. I would think stainless would not have showed up until much later.
The core wire has plenty of protection. I would suspect failures would occur primarily in the insulation aging/breakdown which would lead to leaking current to the shield wire. I would also suspect corrosion issues where the small tip spring retaining pins are pushed into contact with the core wire.
The current aircraft versions of these shielded wire assemblies use a coiled stainless core wire into which threaded tip pins are used which offers better retention and contact. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Appreciate your knowledge Wes,
I would agree that the insulation would most probably be the first thing to deteriorate.
Reason I thought stainless was because I thought that I recall seeing and using some spark plug cable wire with the stranded wire that looked like stainless wire some years ago.
I was just curious again.
Was tossing the idea around to maybe purchase a spare set of cables/wires. Instead of waiting till the future if and when I might need a set, better to purchase now because the price will surely be higher then. I figure at least 8 years on a set of would be practical. But really right now I need to concentrate on getting the M100 back together.
Ken _________________ Tropical Veteran
35th Inf. Reg. "CACTI" 4th I.D. VN
Amateur Radio K5XOM
Except for deep water fording and trailer queen show car I can't see why folks insist on using the shielded plugs and plug wires. Standard Packard 440 wire and tips can be easily adapted to the distributor's outer cap and there are an excellent selection of quality civvy style plugs out there.
One of these days I'm going to sit down and see how an aircraft slick harness kit works in our application. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jul 18, 2008 Posts: 639 Location: Melrose, MA and Santa Fe, NM
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 5:11 am Post subject:
I'm curious if there is an issue with using M38A1 wires on the M38. I just replaced my spark plug wires (they were all about 22 - 23 inches long so may be M38A1 wires). I got used but good condition ones from Bob Stahl of Veteran Vehicles here in Wrentham, MA for about $15/plug wire. The jeep starts and runs perfectly and while I only drove it in the parking lot (still working on it) it ran fine. So does anyone know of any issues with that? Would it be wise to invest now in a set of correct length wires for future insertion?
An interesting side note, the carbuerator was last serviced in 06/63 at the CSMS so that may be in the time frame when it was released from the military stocks. I'm still trying to figure out the original serial number as the data plate on it has a serial number from a CJ and I have not been able to find any other data plates.
The only differences are the M38A1 cables are longer and have straight tips. Won't hurt anything. Post or email me a photo of your dash plates and the patenet plate on the front end of the right rear wheel house behind the passenger seat. _________________ Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
Joined: Jul 18, 2008 Posts: 639 Location: Melrose, MA and Santa Fe, NM
Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 9:02 am Post subject:
Wes,
When I get the jeep back I'll send some pics of the dash data plate. I was talking to David Uhrig about it and he things it's the serial number from a CJ that someone got from a junk yard. His feeling is that someone just did the easiest means to get the jeep registered rather than use the military (it may have been missing anyway) data plate serial number. The problem is that I have not found any other data plates on it. Someone was doing a major restoration and the jeep had been repainted, which is when those data plates may have come off. But I'll send you what I can. I have some pics that I can post now, ones I got from the seller before I bought that I used to show to David Uhrig. I'll try to post those here. Maybe someone has some insight.
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