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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - M38A1-C engine block (F-134) and advice needed.
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M38A1-C engine block (F-134) and advice needed.

 
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m38a1chuck
Member


Joined: Jul 25, 2008
Posts: 29
Location: Ord, Nebraska

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:46 pm    Post subject: M38A1-C engine block (F-134) and advice needed. Reply with quote

Hello all,
I'm new here. I own a M38A1-C that's had a rough life. From what I understand it once carried a 106 rifle, then served as a civil defense vehicle where it was painted a bright yellow. Then it served offroad and had a roll bar installed by cutting thru the body and welding direct to the frame. And finally it ended up on a farm with a large heavy cattle guard. When I purchased it had about 3 inches of sludge in the crank, dry hubs, a plastic lawn mower gas tank stored in the battery well bypassing the fuel pump. But it wanted to saved and fuel pump worked fine after a standard fuel tank was installed. Enough history for now.

It's a 1952 but has an L-134 'go-devil' engine that needs overhauled. It smokes and has water in the oil.

Rather than fix up the wrong engine I purchased a 1958 F-134 (CJ) engine that ran ok and smoked some but when I opened it up it had two small cracks, one on each of the center block values and the piston rod in #4 was loose and scored up the wall to require it to be bored out. Keep going? Some people say the cracks are very common and may run for years.... others say start new. Read some where that I should bore all four cylinders, add selves and use the stock piston.

So I need advice or a solid F-134 block. I'm in central Nebraska. Also I'll have a L-134 for sale soon.
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wesk
Site Administrator
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Joined: Apr 04, 2005
Posts: 9336
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Chuck,
Get your block to a reputable old style engine experienced shop or race engine experienced shop. Have them determine if the cracks are repairable using the weld and pin methods. If the block can be repaired then I would press on with what you have. Sleeves are not a whole lot more expensive than oversized pistons and rebore. The difference in price is the sleeve since both methods require new pistons and boring the block. Sleeves done correctly are just fine and will last another 30 years.

What is the serial number and casting number on your F134 and the L134?
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100
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m38a1chuck
Member


Joined: Jul 25, 2008
Posts: 29
Location: Ord, Nebraska

PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Wes,

I can get the L-134 serial but the F-134 is at the shop. For now I plan to pop the head of the L-134 to get an idea of what's going on inside. It'd be great if a new gasket corrected the oil in the water. The main idea is to just get a better understand of what shape the L-134 is in.

To that end I'm looking for sequence and torque values for re-installation of the head. I got my a lot of manuals on CD but haven't found that info yet. And lots of my doc is for the F-134.

And advice or direction is welcome.

Chuck


wesk wrote:
Hello Chuck,
Get your block to a reputable old style engine experienced shop or race engine experienced shop. Have them determine if the cracks are repairable using the weld and pin methods. If the block can be repaired then I would press on with what you have. Sleeves are not a whole lot more expensive than oversized pistons and rebore. The difference in price is the sleeve since both methods require new pistons and boring the block. Sleeves done correctly are just fine and will last another 30 years.

What is the serial number and casting number on your F134 and the L134?
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m38a1chuck
Member


Joined: Jul 25, 2008
Posts: 29
Location: Ord, Nebraska

PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did find this info:

1. Install Cylinder Head. Install a cylinder head gasket on the
cylinder block. Making sure there is no foreign material in the cylinders,
place the cylinder head on the cylinder block, and install and
tighten the cylinder head bolts to from 65 to 75 foot-pounds with a
torque wrench. (Start with a centrally located bolt, and work alternately
each way.)


m38a1chuck wrote:
Thanks Wes,

I can get the L-134 serial but the F-134 is at the shop. For now I plan to pop the head of the L-134 to get an idea of what's going on inside. It'd be great if a new gasket corrected the oil in the water. The main idea is to just get a better understand of what shape the L-134 is in.

To that end I'm looking for sequence and torque values for re-installation of the head. I got my a lot of manuals on CD but haven't found that info yet. And lots of my doc is for the F-134.

And advice or direction is welcome.

Chuck


wesk wrote:
Hello Chuck,
Get your block to a reputable old style engine experienced shop or race engine experienced shop. Have them determine if the cracks are repairable using the weld and pin methods. If the block can be repaired then I would press on with what you have. Sleeves are not a whole lot more expensive than oversized pistons and rebore. The difference in price is the sleeve since both methods require new pistons and boring the block. Sleeves done correctly are just fine and will last another 30 years.

What is the serial number and casting number on your F134 and the L134?
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