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Compression testing results.
Rear brake cyclinder compatability
T90 inspection before action?
M38 Radio Power Cable/Connector
Wanted to buy - C-375/VRC
Battery cut off in motor compartment?
Cross Member Radiator Tabs
WTB M38 distributor breaker plate tabs
Hodakaguy M38 Misc Thread
1950 M38 no reading on the dash amp meter

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willysmjeeps.com :: View topic - Finally started working on my M38
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Finally started working on my M38
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ocwd
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Joined: May 14, 2007
Posts: 721
Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 9:35 am    Post subject: Engine Stay Cable Reply with quote

Here is a picture of my engine stay cable. I am assuming that the bracket attached to the cable is for the parking brake cable. Is that bracket correct for the M38? Is it for the M38? Anyone have pictures of the correct orientation of this bracket?

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Ryan_Miller
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Location: Kansas

PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like the bracket for the parking brake. It should be covered in rubber on the bottom. Just check out McMaster Carr for the rubber coating you can dip the bracket into.
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wesk
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clamp for locking the brake cable in position on the crossmember is illustrated below. The correct clamp was a bit heavier then the one shown and I believe it had a small tab that positioned the clamp correctly and the tab layed in a smaller hole in the upper plate of the tranny mount isolator above the crossmember next to the clamp bolt hole.



The clamp in your photo I believe goes up on the left fender in hole #14 illustrated below.


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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 54 M37, 66 M101A1, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D, 47Bantam T3-C & 5? M100

Mjeeps photo album: http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=Wes-Knettle&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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ocwd
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:52 pm    Post subject: Bracket Reply with quote

The bracket/clamp in your picture looks very common. I am sure that I have one or two laying around.
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maeserik
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Joined: Jun 14, 2006
Posts: 226
Location: Wijnegem Belgium Europe

PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

always nice to see a picture of my jeep as an example to show everything has to be fixed....

No problems Wes, i had different clamps to fix the parkingbrake cable, now i know i did not use the right one after 5 years......


greetings, Erik
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1942 GPW 71336 my son's jeep restored now
1951 M38 MC11891
1953 VW beetle (genuine german Käfer )
1957 fantastic wife

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showgallery.php?cat=1865

and this webside
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alpino
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Joined: Apr 09, 2011
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Location: Bozeman, Montana

PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NICE M38! I am learning more regarding my M38 from your adventures! I will say... regarding the muffler and pipes... when you start running down the road it will smell like your ride is on fire but it's the paint burnin' off.
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M100 trailer 1951
GPW 1945
LPCs 1980 to 2007
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ocwd
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Location: Placentia, CA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 6:07 pm    Post subject: Muffler Paint Reply with quote

I figured that the paint would burn off. I am temted to strip the paint and shoot it with a high temp metal color paint. It's a cheap muffler, probably made in China. I guess it's the only one on the market. I painted my exhaust manifold too. I expect that will smell like $&% also.
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53a1
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Joined: Jun 25, 2008
Posts: 583
Location: Kern Co.

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the 2000 deg primer & paint from Autozone on my muffler and exhaust manifold and both are holding up perfect after a few 1/2 hour drives in 100+ weather.

I did sand blast them before prime and paint.

I also did a weld test on the same paint and it only came up near the weld. Pretty amazing stuff.
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'53 M38A1 X2
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ocwd
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:01 pm    Post subject: Paint Reply with quote

I'll probably do what you did Dave. What is the color that you used on your muffler?
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ocwd
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 9:45 am    Post subject: Voltage Regulator Reply with quote

I painted my voltage regulator top a few months ago but I forgot what color the raised letters were. I think they were red but I am really not sure. Also, I painted the brackets OD. Is it necessary to have metal to metal where the insulators mount to the bracket? Meaning, should I strip the paint at that section of the brackets? I still need to paint the base.
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53a1
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dave.

I wire wheeled the bottom feet on the regulator to contact the braided line and masked the surface your talking about before painting. Before assembling I cleaned the bare surfaces with contact cleaner on a rag and applied a dielectric spray.

You probably don't have to do all this because the bolt will complete the circuit but I figure it can't hurt. I didn't paint the letters and don't plan on doing so.

Have you verified your regulator is working?

Like always, consult the experts (not me) first if you want 100% originality.
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evanso1975
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was an NOS regulator on Ebay a few weeks ago (I think the guy was advertising it as M37 Dodge). That had the raised letters painted red.

Of course, I didn't keep a picture of it. Rolling Eyes

Wbr,
Owen.
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1951 US Air Force M38
1944 F-1 1/2-ton Airdrome Trailer
1940 C15 Chevrolet CMP 11-cab
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ocwd
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:10 pm    Post subject: Voltage Regulator Reply with quote

Dave, I bought my regulator and generator from a guy who tested them before he sold them to me. I know where he lives just in case. I also have a back-up regulator. Come to think of it, my back-up has the brackets attached. I'll remove one of the brackets and see if it is painted under the insulators.

Thanks Owen. I was pretty sure the letters are red but wanted to confirm.
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ocwd
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 7:39 am    Post subject: Voltage Regulator Brackets Reply with quote

I checked two sets of voltage regulator brackets and both were bare metal where the insulators mount.
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Ryan_Miller
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The photo of the e brake cable bracket above is the bracket at the bell housing. As Wes said there is also a clamp bracket at the tranny cross member, at the inner fender well on the driver side and a clamp at the under dash bracket.

A great resource for electrical, wiper, fuel , etc metal clamps for the M38 is the Australian company MV spares in their MB kit. That kit has bracket clamps that are also the same for the M38. Speedo cable, fuel line, electrical, and the fender e brake cable bracket.

Yes you want the brackets to be bare metal - originals were cadmium plated. You need a good ground.
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Ryan Miller
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